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Round 2: Altered, Counterfeit, or Genuine Error?
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<p>[QUOTE="Bob Evancho, post: 4235249, member: 84595"]My analysis comes out to a genuine 1960-D cent with a fake second strike. I note how the field rolls up to the rim unlike many counterfeit coins which don't have the dish appearance. The fake strike, 1960 was not struck in a collar. There are other diagnostics that indicate a fake second strike. Secondary date strike distance from the rim, no mint mark etc.. It also looks like a wood block coin. Taking two pieces of hardwood and laying a cent in between them, then smacking with a sledge hammer. This made a crude hard wood die. Then putting another coin in the wood depression of the first coin, trying to line up the two hardwood blocks and smacking the blocks with a sledge hammer. Final result is a man made altered coin to look like a double struck in collar. When I was in shop class 55 years ago, this was a fun thing for others to do. I'm sure the shop vice did better than the sledge hammer.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Bob Evancho, post: 4235249, member: 84595"]My analysis comes out to a genuine 1960-D cent with a fake second strike. I note how the field rolls up to the rim unlike many counterfeit coins which don't have the dish appearance. The fake strike, 1960 was not struck in a collar. There are other diagnostics that indicate a fake second strike. Secondary date strike distance from the rim, no mint mark etc.. It also looks like a wood block coin. Taking two pieces of hardwood and laying a cent in between them, then smacking with a sledge hammer. This made a crude hard wood die. Then putting another coin in the wood depression of the first coin, trying to line up the two hardwood blocks and smacking the blocks with a sledge hammer. Final result is a man made altered coin to look like a double struck in collar. When I was in shop class 55 years ago, this was a fun thing for others to do. I'm sure the shop vice did better than the sledge hammer.[/QUOTE]
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Round 2: Altered, Counterfeit, or Genuine Error?
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