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<p>[QUOTE="Owle, post: 1253244, member: 22004"]Thanks for the replies to this query.</p><p><br /></p><p>The counterfeits can be very tricky to identify as well as the problem coins. But the admonition to never buy raw coins if you get stuck should be qualified. I rarely get snookered by raw gold coins which imo are much easier to identify as problem coins, with notable exceptions.</p><p><br /></p><p>I recently bought a $2.50 Liberty that NGC identified as fake. The show dealer gave me my money back no problem. Should he also be responsible for certifying fee?</p><p><br /></p><p>Last year I bought a $20 Liberty from Apmex that was certified by PCI MS64. NGC called it a counterfeit. Apmex gave me my money plus the NGC certifying fee. In this case, that was probably equitable. Most of us are glad to suffer a minor loss, even 10% or so, rather than be stuck with a problem coin that may only be worth the metal content.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Owle, post: 1253244, member: 22004"]Thanks for the replies to this query. The counterfeits can be very tricky to identify as well as the problem coins. But the admonition to never buy raw coins if you get stuck should be qualified. I rarely get snookered by raw gold coins which imo are much easier to identify as problem coins, with notable exceptions. I recently bought a $2.50 Liberty that NGC identified as fake. The show dealer gave me my money back no problem. Should he also be responsible for certifying fee? Last year I bought a $20 Liberty from Apmex that was certified by PCI MS64. NGC called it a counterfeit. Apmex gave me my money plus the NGC certifying fee. In this case, that was probably equitable. Most of us are glad to suffer a minor loss, even 10% or so, rather than be stuck with a problem coin that may only be worth the metal content.[/QUOTE]
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