Featured Restoring artificially toned coins

Hello, everyone. In the past couple of months I have successfully conserved 2 coins that had artificial toning. PLEASE NOTE: This is only informational based on my experience. Be careful if attempting to do this for your own coins. My first successful attempt was on an NGC XF45 1827 Capped Bust Half Dollar, that I bought because it was the unidentified 1827/6 over-date. When I received the coin, it was clearly artificially toned and had what I call a "chalky" appearance to the bluish toning, which hid the luster and dulled the surfaces.

Here is the link to that thread, showing the coin: https://www.cointalk.com/threads/i-thought-i-screwed-up-but-got-rewarded-a-submission-story.248248/

Even though it was in a problem-free NGC holder, it was clearly a problem coin to my eyes, so I cracked it out and used the following method:
1. Spend a TON of time inspecting the artificially toned coin for hairlines, scratches, or damage underneath the toning. Use a black light and LED light, which often help bring out underlying hairlines. Usually, coins are artificially toned to hide a problem. HOWEVER, sometimes coins are artificially toned to enhance the color or create more eye-appeal, subjective as it may be, for collectors.
2. Use dip diluted heavily with distilled water. I used about 20 parts water to 1 part E*Z*Est coin dip. You can't be too careful here, so water it down even more if you want, and take your time!
3. Apply by pouring it over the surfaces repeatedly. Only use a Q-Tip after trying the pouring method repeatedly for a LONG time. Hopefully, you won't need to do this at all. Patience is the key. And when I used a Q-Tip, I did not grind it on the surfaces. I just swept it over lightly in a circular motion, and it lifted the fake tone off the surface.

That 1827/6 came back from PCGS as AU50, so not only did I save it from it's artificially toned state, it also upgraded the coin from XF to AU, though this is the exception, not the rule, I am sure.

Here is my latest attempt using the same method above. I bought this coin raw for $400 because I thought it was the Tripled Die Reverse FS-801 variety, and it turned out I was right. But the coin was black on the obverse and nearly black on the reverse, save for some colorful fake toning in the center around the eagle. In this case, I inspected the coin exhaustively, and found no evidence of prior cleaning or hidden damage. It appeared to me that someone either wanted to tone the coin to hide the wear and make it appear uncirculated, or they let their artificial toning method go too long and it blackened the coin. In either case, it was apparent in-hand that the toning was artificial. It had that chalky dull look to it. So here are the before and after pics:


As you can see, the difference is night and day. The first thing I noticed upon completing the restoration was that the wear on the coin was now easily noticeable on all the high points such as the face, cap, olive branch, eagle head, feathers, etc. Clearly, this is not a BU coin. The second thing I noticed was the luster! Wow! Also, I was happy to see that the die tripling on the reverse was now so prominent, you could see it with the naked eye. Here is a close-up of it:


PCGS graded this coin problem-free AU58, and I had them add the variety to the label. This is my first cherrypicked TDR, FS-801 barber half, and my second restoration of a coin suffering from artificial toning. So far I'm batting 1000 on these, but I'm sure that one day I'll strike out. I would imagine that this information would be useful to people wanting to remove obviously fake toning from a gemmy coin, particularly Morgan dollars, as those often come artificially toned even though the coin itself may grade MS65.

 

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Nice post sir. I agree with your take on the situation. The real key is knowledge and thorough inspection. You are 100% correct AT is a common way, (too common), to hide problems. It was the main reason why toned coins used to bring a discount, not a premium, since its so much more work to ensure the coin is problem free if its toned.

You are extremely lucky the second coin came out well. I would have given it a 20% chance of not being corroded. I have dipped lots of black coins, and unfortunately most did not come out as well as yours. Black is the terminal state of toning, after that its straight corrosion. The only black toned coins that can survive are the glossy black ones like yours, once its a matte black, (not shiny), its like a 1% chance it will not be corroded.

Overall, nice write-up sir. I am sure it will be helpful. Also, I highly agree with using watered down dip. Always start with the least intrusive method on a coin, and work your way up if needed. Also, for those who have not done it, please start on junk coins. Go find some junk silver or toned Lincoln cents first and make your errors on those coins, or simply find someone who is knowledgable on how to do this. I learned from a dealer who had done it for 40 years before I ever touched a coin like this.

 

Have you tried removing AT off of copper?

 

I have not, and should clarify that my 2 successes are on silver coins.

 

Very Informative. Thank you for sharing.

 

Good eye and great results.

 

This method works well with coins doctored by various methods. How will it work with coins treated with gasses or heat?

 

Nice stuff CBD.

 

Honestly, I only know how to deal with these chalky, thickly artificially toned coins, and I actually don't know how they are created. I just know how to undo the damage (assuming the tone isn't there to hide a problem).
I believe the barber half was toned to hide the wear, so that someone could sell it as uncirculated.

 

Like C-B-D said , I've never heard of a way to dip copper , dipping copper will usually give it a pinkish hue which is a dead giveaway . My advice is to leave copper alone and avoid buying problem pieces .
Good post C-B-D .

 

Excellent write-up as usual Doug. The thing about going slow is you can do it in stages. I have had coins "going bad" as I lightened the toning, and I was able to stop. It didn't stop the damage from being there, but let me stop it being so glaringly obvious. However, it takes much longer. After a while I just quickly dipped all coins, and if it was ugly retoned them.

Like you say, if you spend a LOT of time examining a coin you can USUALLY see if it will be bad or not, but never a guarantee. I have had coins I SWORE would be fine come out with major problems, and others I gave a 5% chance come out beautifully.

 

Great read. Thanks for sharing

 

You did well, but I don't believe you actually "restored" either coin, but instead performed a market acceptable dip job on each.

 

I guess I restored it just like PCGS Restoration Service does, huh?

 

Yep!

 

Nah, you did better!

 

What is dip made of?