Redbook values and cleaned coins

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Dougmeister, Nov 6, 2013.

  1. Dougmeister

    Dougmeister Well-Known Member

    I've heard that Redbook is about 10% or more too high in their estimates. Is that widely believed?

    Also, if a coin is graded at AU, but cleaned, how do I get a ballpark value without seeing/handling the coin? Harshness/quality of the cleaning affects it greatly, I guess.

    Does it always knock it down at least one grade?
     
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  3. Hunt1

    Hunt1 Active Member

    Cleaning does not always knock the grade down. If it is harsh I can see where the cleaning marks can be misinterpreted as scratches or hairlines.

    Generally greysheet, or past auction prices (heritage, ebay, teletrade) are a good place to find relevant prices on coins.
     
  4. bugo

    bugo Well-Known Member

    When a coin is dirty, I'll take it to work and soak it in grille cleaner for a few minutes and then spray it with hot water. It works like magic. I made two grungy Indian head pennies look rather shiny using that stuff. I don't collect to sell, and I'd rather have a clean coin than a dirty one.
     
  5. Travlntiques

    Travlntiques Well-Known Member

    Red Book prices vary widely because it is only issued once a year, which (in recent years) hasn't been enough to keep up with the spot prices of gold and silver. Basically the Red Book tries to establish a RETAIL value, so it does have a significant (over 10%) premium on all coins. But again, rapid increases in precious metals prices can change that.

    If a coin is graded AU cleaned, it's going to be in a "details" holder. Assessing the value for problem coins is a little more difficult because it deals a lot with eye appeal and rarity. You're right, if the coin was cleaned with, say a brillo pad, its value is going to be significantly lower then a coin that was just over dipped. And there is no standard percentage decrease for problem coins......you have to know what you're doing to not over pay. Not a bad idea to show some photos of the coin in question to a website (like this one :) ) for some professional opinions.
     
  6. kaosleeroy108

    kaosleeroy108 The Mahayana Tea Shop & hobby center

    grill cleaner??? that's insane dude don't clean them
     
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  7. bugo

    bugo Well-Known Member

    Why not clean them? I have no intention of ever selling any of my coins, and I prefer clean coins. I don't care if it diminishes the value of the coin.
     
  8. Dougmeister

    Dougmeister Well-Known Member

    I'm planning on attending my first auction next week, so I have no pictures. My advice was to just go and learn, and not buy anything. That's gonna be tough.

    Does anyone have a recent graysheet they could give to me?
     
  9. saltysam-1

    saltysam-1 Junior Member

    Curious, what do you plan to do with them after you loose interest in collecting, are you just going to put them back into circulation at face value, or maybe give them away? If you still have them when you pass on, let whom ever deal with them, as they see fit? There are not many other options if they have no other value. It just seems odd that you are a collector with no concern about damaging the item you collect. There are ways to improve the items appearance other then grill cleaner. This seems to be truely self serving at the hobbys' expense.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2013
    kaosleeroy108 likes this.
  10. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Widely believed ? Let me put it this way, the Red Book is so far off of values that nobody, and I mean nobody, in the coin business would ever use the Red Book for value info.

    A lot of people misunderstand the concept. First of all, any problem coin - and that includes those that have been harshly cleaned, have altered surfaces, that are damaged, etc etc etc - cannot be graded. Problem coins have no grade at all - ever.

    When a TPG puts AU, XF, VF, whatever, on a Genuine or Details slab they are not grading the coin. All they are doing is telling you that the problem coin has details that are similar to a problem free AU, XF, VF, whatever. So no, it does not knock it down one grade because there is no grade.

    Part of the reason for the confusion over knocking it down a grade comes from the fact that ANACS used to net grade coins. They used to list the problem on the slab, and then assign a net grade based on the severity of the problem for that specific coin. So yes, ANACS, but only ANACS and only during that specific time period, would "knock the grade down". But even they quit doing that because it confused too many people.

    That's where the idea comes from.
     
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  11. Dougmeister

    Dougmeister Well-Known Member

    Ok. So I'm regretting my Redbook purchase now. Graysheets are the way to go? If I don't want to pay, I can get ballpark ideas on prices from completed auctions (eBay? Other?), heritage auctions, and numismatic?
     
  12. Dougmeister

    Dougmeister Well-Known Member

    I meant "numismedia"
     
  13. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Don't regret buying the Red Book. The Red Book is literally full of very good information. You just need to ignore and not pay any attention to the values listed in the Red Book.

    The Grey Sheet is good, yes. But you have to understand that the values listed in the Grey Sheet are only for coins that you can view in hand, and coins that are only average for the grade (that does not mean the average price, far from it in fact !). What that means is that coins of a given grade may well be worth less than what is listed in the Grey Sheet, or may well be worth a good deal more than what is listed in the Grey Sheet.

    As for other sources, Heritage is one of the best. When you use Heritage you get to see the full price range for a given coin in a given grade. Realized prices from other auction houses are also good.

    But ebay is different, and I always recommend that people do not use ebay to check prices. That is because there are way too many people buying coins on ebay that have no clue about what they are doing or what coins are really worth. And because of that they pay way too much for the coins they buy. So if you use the completed prices on ebay then you are going to think the coins are worth more than they really are.

    ebay is a self perpetuating price inflation machine.
     
  14. torontokuba

    torontokuba Thread Crapper & Hijacker, TP please.

    So, what does that say about catalogue values, when the average of sold ebay auctions is often 25 - 33% less than the catalogue prices? Does this mean catalogues often inflate by up to 50% and buying from ebay you end up overpaying by, lets say 25%?
     
  15. xGAJx

    xGAJx Happy

    Let me guess, your bididng on NorthKorea's Morgan Dollar Micro O in AU50 cleaned PCGS holder? It fits perfectley in timing and all.
     
  16. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    What specifically are you referring to when you say catalog values ? If you are talking about a price guide on a web site, from a magazine, or printed by anybody, other than the Grey Sheet, then yes.

    There is not a single price guide out there that is worth the paper it is printed on.
     
  17. torontokuba

    torontokuba Thread Crapper & Hijacker, TP please.

    For example NGC or US Coin Book.

    Like most auctions, having a clue or the quantity of participants can never be a match for a bid, fueled by a passion or emotion one feels for their hobby.

    In that case, sounds like one can do a lot worse than ebay. I'm sure there is a push or trend or rut, whatever you want to call it, where many people buy these various price guides, year after year, and stick to them with their buying.
     
  18. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    NGC does not even have a price guide of their own, all they do is use Numismedia. yeah I know they call it the NGC Price Guide, but it isn't. They are just taking their info direct from Numismedia. NGC even tells you that.

    Take the time sometime to look up the sources that the various price guides, any of them, use for the values listed in them. What you find when you do is usually surprising to most. And it goes a long way in explaining why the values listed in price guides are so far off from reality.

    And yes, lots of folks use various price guides. But that doesn't mean that they should, or that the information in them is any good. And that's why lots of people pay way too much for coins every single day. It also a large part of the reason why 95% or more of collectors lose money on their collections when they eventually sell them.
     
  19. torontokuba

    torontokuba Thread Crapper & Hijacker, TP please.

    What is your recommendation for buying at the right fair price and where (lets say up to $100 value single coins)? Keep in mind, gas to Buffalo, NY might negate most of my savings on a given coin.;) I don't use internet or printed price guides much, since the yo-yo effect between the various sources is evident, with all prices usually being higher than what I consider fair.
     
  20. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    I'm not sure what you mean exactly, especially the part about driving to Buffalo.

    If you are asking me what specific dealer you should go to, there's probably a hundred of them, maybe hundreds. The dealer you go to, (and you don't necessarily have to drive there, most have web sites and go to coin shows), depends on the specific coin you are looking for. That's because some dealers specialize in cents or copper coins, and you don't go to a dealer who specializes in copper when you want a half dollar. You go to a dealer who specializes in what you want specifically.

    Honestly, all around, Heritage is about as good as it gets. You can find virtually anything on Heritage if you use a little patience. And the price you pay to Heritage is less than you'd pay on ebay far more often than not, and often less than what most dealers would charge. Lots and lots of dealers buy their stuff on Heritage after all - then they sell it for more.

    Also, depending on how much money you spend on coins in a given year can have a bearing on where you go. I say that because it is possible for individual collectors to join the electronic dealer networks, and you can buy coins at wholesale there. But you do have to pay a membership fee to do that. But if you spend $2000 on coins in a year, and you spend $200-$300 for your membership fee, and by doing that you can save $500 on that $2000 worth of coins, then it was well worth it to pay your membership fee. At a $100 a coin, you get 2 or 3 coins free. Compared to what you would have had to pay elsewhere.

    So where do you go, is not a simple question. The answer will vary depending upon what you want specifically.
     
  21. torontokuba

    torontokuba Thread Crapper & Hijacker, TP please.

    Buffalo would be my closest border crossing, that's all.

    I am already involved in buying relationships with several great US dealers. Most of them started out as a first transaction on ebay. Several emails later, all other transactions were at a 15% - 20% discount and done via their website. That probably explains why I have been on ebay since 2002 and don't even have 250 ratings showing.;) I would say, at least 75% of my coin acquisitions are from developing a good rapport with dealers, sellers and trade partners.

    Cheers, for the rest of the info.
     
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