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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2437106, member: 24314&quot;]Maybe a long time ago.&nbsp; IMO, today the great images on the Heritage site are your best tools; however, the c/f&#039;s are getting really good. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>A professional authenticator MUST know what the microscopic characteristics of the genuine piece should look like.&nbsp; Without this, the <span style="color: #00b3b3">average</span> dealer/collector is mostly only able to detect the very crude fakes like the 1845 Half above that is only suitable for a very basic authentication course given to students who know nothing about coins.&nbsp;&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>A good first step is to carefully examine the date and letter design of the type of genuine coins you collect.&nbsp; That alone should help to ID pieces like the coin above.&nbsp; I <span style="color: #b30000">could; yet WILL NOT </span>post photos of fakes that virtually no one here would be able to detect from just the photo.&nbsp; You would need micrographs of specific areas, and diagnostic characteristics.&nbsp; Some of these coins were previously CERTIFIED as genuine. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I recommend anyone interested in counterfeit detection take an ANA Seminar or private instruction by a qualified teacher.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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