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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;clembo, post: 232688, member: 8033&quot;]<b>Grading what you&#039;re looking for</b></p><p><br /></p><p>Some interesting experiences and comments here folks.</p><p><br /></p><p>The idiot that has no respect for a younger buyer is just that AN IDIOT. They are the next generation of collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for dress I&#039;m pretty darn casual I&#039;d say. I&#039;ve gone to shows after working a few hours before. As a painter I tend to look like one. Just make sure that my hands are clean.</p><p><br /></p><p>If I&#039;m not working I at least wear clothes without paint all over them. Real painters don&#039;t use rags we wear them.</p><p><br /></p><p>I attend mainly smaller shows - say 15 to 50 tables. I find the dealers are all usually quite friendly and it is much easier to take a quick spin around the room before buying anything.</p><p>Dealers that I have dealt with are always more than happy to put a few pieces aside and work on a price while I peruse other offerings. Key is that you should be SERIOUS about buying from them and I usually do. Make it worth their while and they&#039;ll do the same.</p><p>BIG shows while impressive don&#039;t thrill me. Too much money invested to be there as a dealer so good deals seem to be much scarcer until the waning moments of the last day.</p><p><br /></p><p>When I go to a show I usually have a pretty good idea of what I&#039;m looking for and what I&#039;m willing to pay. Being into type coins I ALWAYS brush up on my grading from the ANA book the night before.</p><p>When I get to the show I carry a back pack with Greysheet, a current Coin Prices and the good old ANA grading guide.</p><p>I don&#039;t expect Greysheet bid on most coins. Hey, these guys have to make a living too. Coin Prices gives me a good idea of current retail so I can find a midpoint if neccesary. I rarely pay retail unless I really want it.</p><p><br /></p><p>To me knowing something about grading is the KEY. If you can POLITELY tell a dealer why you think a coin may be slightly over graded and then proceed to tell him exactly WHY you feel this way the price will generally drop. If you can do that without consulting the ANA book right in front of them it&#039;s even more effective.</p><p><br /></p><p>Dealers don&#039;t know everything about every coin and an honest one will admit it. I&#039;ve had several occasions when a dealer has basically told me that I know that particular coin better than him and dropped price accordingly. These folks also tend to get repeat business from me.</p><p>If it&#039;s over graded and they won&#039;t even consider your points then move along. Seems I rarely do this though as long as you are POLITE and INFORMED.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have on a few occasions brought my Unc set of 2 Cent Pieces to shows. If a dealer has a nice coin and you&#039;re interested sharing your set let&#039;s them know that you are serious. Hey, they all like to see nice coins as well.</p><p><br /></p><p>Finally, I usually have some &quot;trade bait&quot; with me. With me it&#039;s tougher dates dupes. A small motto and 1872 2 Cent Piece, a few F-VF Flying Eagles. at least one G-VG 1927-S Standing Liberty and a decent 1914-S Barber quarter.</p><p>Honestly I have yet to trade one but it let&#039;s them know that you have a pretty good grasp on coins as a whole. Believe me, they&#039;ll drop the price when they see a few keys and semi-keys.</p><p><br /></p><p>I know it was long but these things have worked for me.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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