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<p>[QUOTE="cdcda, post: 11785, member: 941"]ND is right, keep those that appeal to you and any that are in above average condition. In regards to the "key dates" here are a few to look for...</p><p><br /></p><p>1915-S - a better date</p><p>1916 Doubled Die - Check the date</p><p>1918/7 - D - Look at the 8 in the date with a glass</p><p>1921-S - a semi-key date</p><p>1937-D 3 Leg - Check the legs on the reverse</p><p>1943/2-P - Check the 3 in the date</p><p>1949-D/S - check the mint mark</p><p><br /></p><p>In addition, the value of many early Denver and San Fransisco Buffalo nickels goes up dramatically if they are in VF or better condition. To make VF, the tail and horn must be complete and you need to be able to see the tip of the horn. On the obverse, Liberty should not be merging with the rim and the hair should show significant detail.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="cdcda, post: 11785, member: 941"]ND is right, keep those that appeal to you and any that are in above average condition. In regards to the "key dates" here are a few to look for... 1915-S - a better date 1916 Doubled Die - Check the date 1918/7 - D - Look at the 8 in the date with a glass 1921-S - a semi-key date 1937-D 3 Leg - Check the legs on the reverse 1943/2-P - Check the 3 in the date 1949-D/S - check the mint mark In addition, the value of many early Denver and San Fransisco Buffalo nickels goes up dramatically if they are in VF or better condition. To make VF, the tail and horn must be complete and you need to be able to see the tip of the horn. On the obverse, Liberty should not be merging with the rim and the hair should show significant detail.[/QUOTE]
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