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<p>[QUOTE="LafayetteDollar, post: 1140522, member: 28853"]The majority of serious Mercury Dime collectors want coins with full bands. Unlike some of the other strike designations, most date/mm in the Mercury Dime series are readily available with full bands. Only the 1945-P is truly rare with only 3% of the population have FB according to Lange. You will find that the non-full band coins are cheaper to buy but very difficult to sell, especially for the common dates which can easily be found with full bands.</p><p><br /></p><p>My advice is to buy full band coins unless the price of the coin becomes cost prohibitive. For example, let's say you start with a Mercury Dime short set 1934-1945 in GEM BU+. The stopper (other than 1945-P) is the 1939-S. You can buy an MS67 for less than $200 whereas the MS65 FB will cost more than $600.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="LafayetteDollar, post: 1140522, member: 28853"]The majority of serious Mercury Dime collectors want coins with full bands. Unlike some of the other strike designations, most date/mm in the Mercury Dime series are readily available with full bands. Only the 1945-P is truly rare with only 3% of the population have FB according to Lange. You will find that the non-full band coins are cheaper to buy but very difficult to sell, especially for the common dates which can easily be found with full bands. My advice is to buy full band coins unless the price of the coin becomes cost prohibitive. For example, let's say you start with a Mercury Dime short set 1934-1945 in GEM BU+. The stopper (other than 1945-P) is the 1939-S. You can buy an MS67 for less than $200 whereas the MS65 FB will cost more than $600.[/QUOTE]
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