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<p>[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 1883485, member: 112"]paragal - </p><p><br /></p><p>When you get around to doing this I would suggest you just do 1 coin at first. I say that because there are other things that could be on the coin besides PVC residue. And while acetone will remove PVC residue, there are many other things it will not remove. So do the 1 coin, and if it works, great. If it doesn't, then you know it would be a waste of time on the others.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for some of the other comments in the thread. Yes, many are not in favor of a final rinse in distilled water. I am in favor of it, and there is a reason for it. The reason is because with some coins, (it doesn't happen every time but it does sometimes), the acetone rinse can leave the coin looking unnatural, kind of like it has what I describe as a whitish cast to it similar to what it does when you put it on your skin. This is specifically because acetone, as mentioned, removes all traces of moisture. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now everything, even a coin, has a certain amount of moisture on it. This is natural and it cannot be avoided for there is always moisture in the air. So any time you remove all traces of moisture from an object it is going to look different than it did before. In other words it will look unnatural. The final rinse in distilled water replaces the natural moisture removed from the coin by the acetone. Then you let the coin air dry (no patting, no wiping with a cloth) while standing on edge for 24 hours, and it will completely dry in 24 hrs every single time, and it will then look natural again. And no, the distilled water can in no way ever hurt your coin, any coin, if you follow those directions.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another thing, no pure acetone will not leave any residue on the coin. But therein lies the problem. For once you place a contaminated coin in the acetone to remove that contamination, then the acetone itself becomes contaminated because whatever was on the coin dissolves in the acetone and it is no longer pure, and then it will leave a residue on the coin due to that contamination. But there is an easy way to solve that problem, you do more than 1 acetone rinse, with clean acetone each time.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the link I am going to provide I describe what I call proper acetone procedure - <a href="http://www.cointalk.com/threads/proper-acetone-procedure.193708/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/threads/proper-acetone-procedure.193708/">http://www.cointalk.com/threads/proper-acetone-procedure.193708/</a> </p><p><br /></p><p>Read that thread and you will find it. Now you will probably have some people say oh you don't have to do all of that, you don't have to soak the coins that long, etc etc etc. And yes, in some cases they are right, you don't. But in some cases you do have to do all of that and in some cases you do have to soak the coins that long in order for the acetone to do its job correctly. So my advice is to always do it this way so as to cover all situations. Other wise you may end up starting over from scratch, do it this way and you never will.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 1883485, member: 112"]paragal - When you get around to doing this I would suggest you just do 1 coin at first. I say that because there are other things that could be on the coin besides PVC residue. And while acetone will remove PVC residue, there are many other things it will not remove. So do the 1 coin, and if it works, great. If it doesn't, then you know it would be a waste of time on the others. As for some of the other comments in the thread. Yes, many are not in favor of a final rinse in distilled water. I am in favor of it, and there is a reason for it. The reason is because with some coins, (it doesn't happen every time but it does sometimes), the acetone rinse can leave the coin looking unnatural, kind of like it has what I describe as a whitish cast to it similar to what it does when you put it on your skin. This is specifically because acetone, as mentioned, removes all traces of moisture. Now everything, even a coin, has a certain amount of moisture on it. This is natural and it cannot be avoided for there is always moisture in the air. So any time you remove all traces of moisture from an object it is going to look different than it did before. In other words it will look unnatural. The final rinse in distilled water replaces the natural moisture removed from the coin by the acetone. Then you let the coin air dry (no patting, no wiping with a cloth) while standing on edge for 24 hours, and it will completely dry in 24 hrs every single time, and it will then look natural again. And no, the distilled water can in no way ever hurt your coin, any coin, if you follow those directions. Another thing, no pure acetone will not leave any residue on the coin. But therein lies the problem. For once you place a contaminated coin in the acetone to remove that contamination, then the acetone itself becomes contaminated because whatever was on the coin dissolves in the acetone and it is no longer pure, and then it will leave a residue on the coin due to that contamination. But there is an easy way to solve that problem, you do more than 1 acetone rinse, with clean acetone each time. In the link I am going to provide I describe what I call proper acetone procedure - [url]http://www.cointalk.com/threads/proper-acetone-procedure.193708/[/url] Read that thread and you will find it. Now you will probably have some people say oh you don't have to do all of that, you don't have to soak the coins that long, etc etc etc. And yes, in some cases they are right, you don't. But in some cases you do have to do all of that and in some cases you do have to soak the coins that long in order for the acetone to do its job correctly. So my advice is to always do it this way so as to cover all situations. Other wise you may end up starting over from scratch, do it this way and you never will.[/QUOTE]
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