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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;illini420, post: 632861, member: 19423&quot;]T$,</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Definitely like the after shots better as I see improvement in the clarity of the coin especially.&nbsp; Because they are much more clear I&#039;m assuming that you re-shot the photos and didn&#039;t just run them through a photo editor.&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>For the 1912, the picture is very sharp and I can see all the details very well. However, it looks like the white balance needs adjusting in both the before and after pics as the PCGS label appears more pink than blue in both images.&nbsp; The adjustment is best done on the camera before shooting, but can also be done with a photo editor afterwards in many cases.&nbsp; Making that adjustment might brighten up that photo a little bit as it&#039;s a bit dark and should also make your coin look better as it sort of looks pink now too.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Pretty much the same thing on the 1911 photos, the pic is much more clear, but again it&#039;s pretty dark.&nbsp; White balance adjustment would likely help here too.&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>When I take photos, they usually come out very dark like your after shot of the 1911, even though I have decent lighting and I think my camera&#039;s white balance is set correctly.&nbsp; What I do for slabbed coins is take pictures of all of my coins with a white sheet of paper as a background.&nbsp; That way, when they come out dark I can do my adjustment in my photo editor to make the paper look white (instead of the dark grey it looks w/o adjustment).&nbsp; Doing that generally makes the coin look as it does in hand.&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Takes lots of practice and I still have a ways to go I think too.&nbsp; Bought Mark Goodman&#039;s Numismatic Photography book, but haven&#039;t tried all of the tricks just yet.&nbsp; Seems to be a book that would help beginners to experts.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Good luck.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>P.S.&nbsp; The coins are pretty sweet too!!![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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