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<p>[QUOTE="Midas, post: 63707, member: 2761"]I started with going after quanitity instead of the "keys" or quality and I wish I listened to advice given to me many years ago:</p><p><br /></p><p>"...buy quality over commons, after all, commons will always be common and keys will be few and too far between"</p><p><br /></p><p>For fun, I track Red Book values (just a yearly gauge) for many of my coins. I input Red Book Values into my excel spreadsheet EF40, MS60, MS63 and MS65 grades and it is quite evident that "semi" and "key" dates are ALWAYS increasing (quickly) where the commons are pretty much staying put (with the exception of MS65 grades or higher).</p><p><br /></p><p>So I wish I could of bought that EF40 PCGS 1922 No D Strong Reverse 1c for $1,500 2 plus years ago since that coin is now going for well over $2500. </p><p><br /></p><p>Ask any collector or dealer...buy the best coin in the best grade you can afford. You will NOT be disappointed.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Midas, post: 63707, member: 2761"]I started with going after quanitity instead of the "keys" or quality and I wish I listened to advice given to me many years ago: "...buy quality over commons, after all, commons will always be common and keys will be few and too far between" For fun, I track Red Book values (just a yearly gauge) for many of my coins. I input Red Book Values into my excel spreadsheet EF40, MS60, MS63 and MS65 grades and it is quite evident that "semi" and "key" dates are ALWAYS increasing (quickly) where the commons are pretty much staying put (with the exception of MS65 grades or higher). So I wish I could of bought that EF40 PCGS 1922 No D Strong Reverse 1c for $1,500 2 plus years ago since that coin is now going for well over $2500. Ask any collector or dealer...buy the best coin in the best grade you can afford. You will NOT be disappointed.[/QUOTE]
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