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<p>[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 735080, member: 66"]Something Doug didn't mention. You will have to keep the bowls of acetone covered orelse in a fw minutes you will have a bowl with a coin in it and no acetone. Acetone evaporates VERY quickly.</p><p><br /></p><p>A couple of personaly comments/opinions. I don't think long soaks are needed. acetone tends to works very fast, but for heavy deposits I think agitation works better than soaking. In a soak the solution close to the coin becomes saturated and then it stops working. I prefer to swish my coins around in the acetone so it is constantly being exposed to "fresh" solution and the contaminates are carried away from the coin. I also prefer a quick rinse with fresh acetone before putting the coin into the next bowl. Prevents contamination from one bowl to the next. Unless deposits are extrmely heave usually all you will need is 10 to 15 seconds swishing per bowl. As for disposal of the acetone, I just let it evaporate. On thing Doug didn't mention was to only do this in a WELL ventilated area with no ignition sources. Acetone is VERY flammable and it's high evaporation rate makes it easy to reach explosive atmospheres.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for drying the coin after rinsing, you can use Doug's method or I prefer to do a quick rinse with fresh acetone. The water will dissolve into the acetone and either be flushed away with the rinse or carried off when the acetone evaporates in a few seconds. No chance for water spots.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for the "PVC residue" itself. It might not be at all. They don't check to see if it is, any oily film or residue is called PVC residue. PVC flips leach out the oily plasticizer so when they see oil they call it PVC residue no matter where it might have come from. I have seen coins come straight from government proof and mint sets get bagged for PVC residue because they had too much of the oil they use to keep the planchets from sticking in the press feeder mechanisms on them.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 735080, member: 66"]Something Doug didn't mention. You will have to keep the bowls of acetone covered orelse in a fw minutes you will have a bowl with a coin in it and no acetone. Acetone evaporates VERY quickly. A couple of personaly comments/opinions. I don't think long soaks are needed. acetone tends to works very fast, but for heavy deposits I think agitation works better than soaking. In a soak the solution close to the coin becomes saturated and then it stops working. I prefer to swish my coins around in the acetone so it is constantly being exposed to "fresh" solution and the contaminates are carried away from the coin. I also prefer a quick rinse with fresh acetone before putting the coin into the next bowl. Prevents contamination from one bowl to the next. Unless deposits are extrmely heave usually all you will need is 10 to 15 seconds swishing per bowl. As for disposal of the acetone, I just let it evaporate. On thing Doug didn't mention was to only do this in a WELL ventilated area with no ignition sources. Acetone is VERY flammable and it's high evaporation rate makes it easy to reach explosive atmospheres. As for drying the coin after rinsing, you can use Doug's method or I prefer to do a quick rinse with fresh acetone. The water will dissolve into the acetone and either be flushed away with the rinse or carried off when the acetone evaporates in a few seconds. No chance for water spots. As for the "PVC residue" itself. It might not be at all. They don't check to see if it is, any oily film or residue is called PVC residue. PVC flips leach out the oily plasticizer so when they see oil they call it PVC residue no matter where it might have come from. I have seen coins come straight from government proof and mint sets get bagged for PVC residue because they had too much of the oil they use to keep the planchets from sticking in the press feeder mechanisms on them.[/QUOTE]
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