PVC and airtite in safe

I have all my coins and medals in an Airtite ring container, which are stored in a safe. If I have something in my safe that may contain PVC, do I need to be concerned about the coins/medals in an Airtite holder?

 

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As long as the coins are not in physical contact with the pvc containing material, there should not be any problem.

 

I would agree, though you might want to throw some silica gel in there too

 

If the coins were in PVC and not acetone rinsed before being put into the airtites there could be a problem.

 

Indeed. All coins should be rinsed with acetone prior to storage in an airtite either way. Not only will acetone remove surface debris, it will also dehydrate the coin.

 

Thanks for the advice. I have often used fingernail polish, which is basically acetone to remove the surface debris. I suppose I should stop washing off the acetone after using it now.

 

PVC damage is not only a contact disease, it can also be an air-borne contamination. It is initiated by the plasticizer chemicals added to PVC to make it flexible as well as transparent. These chemicals outgas producing the "Plastic shower curtain" smell. If you can open the safe after it has been closed for a week or more and smell that smell, it could cause damage if the chemicals diffuse into the holders and contact the vulnerable metal, and start reacting with the surface of the coins in the presence of humidity. Eventually most of the plasticizer leaves the plastic and the possibility of damage is lower, but since also increases yellowing and cracking, many collectors replace it with fresh new transparent PVC pages or holders and the process renews its action.

There is no need to have any PVC in the safe. They make non-plasticized vinyl as well as polypropylene binders and pages, all of which are very safe. And I do agree with Thad on the acetone, just be sure the rinses are fresh and pure, or spots or white areas will appear on the coin surfaces, especially proofs.

Do not use any fingernail remover. Get a can of pure acetone ( pint, etc.) at Walmart, Lowes or home depot as some removers can have perfumes and other organic substances , even waxes in one example I checked, that may have a bad effect on metal.

Jim

 

I used to use nail polish remover, but learned quickly that that is an absolutely TERRIBLE method.
You want pure acetone, like the kind you buy at a hardware store. The nail polish remover has additives that leave your coins with a permanent residue or discoloration. But be careful with coins of certain content, such as pure copper, as acetone has been known to leave them with odd discoloration.
Some people will tell you that acetone will never discolor your coins. Make sure you keep in mind that these people obviously have limited or no experience, as anyone that has used it extensively knows full well that it can discolor some metals and alloys.

 

NEVER use nail polish remover on coins. It contains ethylacetate and other ingredients that are harmful to coins.

 

Please explain how acetone can chemically react with metals such as copper, silver, or any coin related alloys. It doesn't! If any discoloration occurs, it is from the reaction with material previously on the coin, or improper rinsing or contamination of the acetone used. If this implied effect occurs, the person with extensive experience, is obviously using it incorrectly.

Jim
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As usual, I have to agree with Jim. Metals cannot react with acetone.

 

A little out of context Doug. I was responding to the quoted part,

with this :

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The (metal - acetone) is not the reaction, it is either something on the coin or something in the acetone that causes the reaction.True, some "treatments", other than acetone such as the various organic oil/wax mixtures that can remain in microscopic pits/rough areas of the surface and may react with acetone. But one should not blame acetone for that.

Jim

 

Unless the coin is lustrous and mint state, there will always be something else on the surface. Acetone will react with organic compounds in patina, especially the type that forms on copper coins, and I've noticed it giving an unnatural shine like chemical cleaning to some aluminum-bronze coins. I apologize if you read my post as implying that acetone reacts with the metal itself, which was not my intention.

 

Whatever the reaction is, I have seen for myself that cooper or brass seems to react negatively more often than the other metals. Maybe it is oxidized copper that is reacting to the acetone. I will use the acetone on the metals that seem to react to it less. As a medal collector who buys white metal among other metals, I have found using acetone valuable in cleaning off the residue often left on the surface.

 

For coins that come in mint issue plastic pouches and holders, is it wise to remove them and throw them into airtite?

 

OK, I know as we have been through this discussion several times before, that we have definite opinions. I will accept that you have seen a change occur with copper when acetone was involved. I have used gallons of acetone with no bad effect except for 2 proof wheat cents years ago, which produced white spots, until I used a longer acetone procedure and they disappeared. Meanwhile I probably have saved myself from hundred of cases where a fresh fingerprint could have been on the coin and the acetone removed it before the fingerprint could etch the metal. Same for PVC contamination as the plasticizers are colorless, and only develop the greenish/blue slime when it has actually damaged the metal. So I choose the acetone direction and feel sorry for those who develop PVC, fingerprint, spit, or fly excrement damage because they didn't use acetone on acquired coins that look OK at the time. If one turns odd because I didn't notice MS70 oil or such on it, my fault, not the acetone.

But I understand why one might not use acetone, and of course it is their coin. I do stand by the statement that pure acetone does not react with copper per se ( not counting such temperature, pressure, or combinations there of, that are not normal for life). To each their own way.

Jim

 

Doug, if it makes you feel better, I have seen the effect you're talking about on a couple of occasions. However, it's not a reaction, it's simple dehydration. An organic surface residue or even corrosion will change in appearence after it's been dehydrated by the acetone. You have to realize that acetone is a very strong desiccant.

I've seen you mention a post-acetone dip in distilled water to "prevent" the white haze. In reality, the water simply rehydrates the offending compound and the water is not removing anything nor the acetone.