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<p>[QUOTE="rodeoclown, post: 1294590, member: 34005"]Unless you can examine the coin in person and it's not professionally graded, sites like EBay are going to be filled with people out to do one thing, make money and they'll do what all other people making money do, use <b>marketing </b>terms to get people to buy their crap.</p><p><br /></p><p>I buy on Ebay but I don't usually buy high ticket items that are questionable. Never go by the sellers grade unless they have a picture of the coin in a graded slab with a number to prove it's that grade they say it is. </p><p><br /></p><p>Other things to avoid if they're not professionally graded: rainbow toned, error coins, <b>unsearched rolls </b>(i see that a lot and so many people fall for that crap) and of course, what the seller grades the coin as. The coins I buy are usually just coins I'm not too worried about the actual grade. I'll try to keep my buying price below the book value after only bidding on the ones that provide detailed pictures so I can make a pretty good judgement of the grade and if it's been cleaned or not. Most that claim high grades without it being professionally graded seem to try and pass off cleaned coins as not cleaned or they'll just fail to specify it.</p><p><br /></p><p>I've actually been just buying mint sets from the years I don't currently have for my collection, which are hard to counterfeit or deceive the buyers. I only buy the official sets if they still have the original envelope and the coins are still in the original cellophane plastic packages with the mint medal if it was included that year set or not.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="rodeoclown, post: 1294590, member: 34005"]Unless you can examine the coin in person and it's not professionally graded, sites like EBay are going to be filled with people out to do one thing, make money and they'll do what all other people making money do, use [B]marketing [/B]terms to get people to buy their crap. I buy on Ebay but I don't usually buy high ticket items that are questionable. Never go by the sellers grade unless they have a picture of the coin in a graded slab with a number to prove it's that grade they say it is. Other things to avoid if they're not professionally graded: rainbow toned, error coins, [B]unsearched rolls [/B](i see that a lot and so many people fall for that crap) and of course, what the seller grades the coin as. The coins I buy are usually just coins I'm not too worried about the actual grade. I'll try to keep my buying price below the book value after only bidding on the ones that provide detailed pictures so I can make a pretty good judgement of the grade and if it's been cleaned or not. Most that claim high grades without it being professionally graded seem to try and pass off cleaned coins as not cleaned or they'll just fail to specify it. I've actually been just buying mint sets from the years I don't currently have for my collection, which are hard to counterfeit or deceive the buyers. I only buy the official sets if they still have the original envelope and the coins are still in the original cellophane plastic packages with the mint medal if it was included that year set or not.[/QUOTE]
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