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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;cdcda, post: 7623, member: 941&quot;]First, the term &quot;proof&quot; merely indicates that the coin in question was struck with highly polished dies and possibly with a higher than normal pressure. Historically, proof coins were struck as examples of a particular strike or design. Today however, they are struck in larger quantities as &quot;presentation examples&quot; for collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>Second, I agree with National Dealer, there is no wrong way to collect. If you want your collection to include one example of each year and mint mark, then leave the proofs out. If you want to include all examples struck of a particular modern coin, then include the proofs.</p><p><br /></p><p>Third, if you do decide to collect the proof examples, (again as per National Dealer) avoid putting them in albums.</p><p><br /></p><p>Fourth, again if you decide to collect the proofs, check out the price guide at <a href="http://www.pcgs.com" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pcgs.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.pcgs.com</a> for retail price guides that include proof issues. Remember when reading the prices that the guide is presented as just that, a guide. Some dealer&#039;s prices will be more and others less.</p><p><br /></p><p>Lastly, proof coins can be purchased as single pieces or in sets. For example, if you are collecting state quarters including proof issues, and you wanted your coins for 2004 you would: a.) purchase a mint set including each of the Brilliant Uncirculated (or single BU samples from bank rolls, b.) purchase a proof set that included one copy of each of the coins, and c.) purchase a silver proof set that included the silver proof example of the coins.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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