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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;The_Cave_Troll, post: 711333, member: 1674&quot;]you ask important questions!!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>not quite.&nbsp; there are valuable problem coins, but they are difficult to sell and of all coins in a dealer&#039;s inventory they are the ones likely to sit around the longest, so his offer will be low because he has factored in the time value of his capital tied up in a difficult to sell coin.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>This story is out of date.&nbsp; PCGS originally intended to only call rarities &quot;genuine&quot; but is was so well received that they have decided to charge a more standard fee for the service.&nbsp; It costs about the same as grading any other coin with them now.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>We can, but we understand the lost use of our capital while stocking a problem coin and the prices we pay are much lower than most people would expect because of the hassle and the length of time required when selling a bad coin.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>That depends on how good you are at spotting problems.&nbsp; if you are as good as the pros then by all means buy them raw, but if you aren&#039;t then be aware that you will (note I didn&#039;t say might) buy problems you don&#039;t see and overpay for that bit of your numismatic education.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>sometimes, but not always. Recognizing problems can only come from knowing what coins in certain conditions are supposed to look like and also knowing what each of the different problems looks like.&nbsp; It takes years of study to get good at this and that is why most US coin collectors stick to ceritfied coins, it is just safer to buy a certified problem free coin (though that isn&#039;t completely foolproof either).[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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