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<p>[QUOTE="TexasJarhead, post: 1348283, member: 9141"]<b>Buffalo Nickels and their strikes</b></p><p><br /></p><p>The Buffalo Nickel is an iconic American series that was the workhorse of its day. Presidents Wilson, Harding, Coolidge, Hoover & Roosevelt presided over the country while this nickel was in service; the Philadelphia Athletics beat the New York Giants in the World Series; and young children could take this Nickel and buy a box of Cracker Jacks, which debuted in 1913.</p><p><br /></p><p>A new design was authorized and artists commenced submitting their designs for the new Nickel. A design by James Earl Fraser was selected. The new design reflected an ideal of the American West with the iconic Native American on the Obverse and the North American Bison on the Reverse.</p><p><br /></p><p>The key to collecting in the Buffalo Nickel series is to select coins based on their details. Mr Q. David Bowers, in his “A Guide Book of Buffalo & Jefferson Nickels”, delineates four types of strikes. Weak Detail, Typical Detail, Strong Detail & Full Detail strikes. I consider strike above grade when I am looking at a new coin. I have chosen Typical Details struck MS-64 coins over Weak Details struck MS-65’s many times. This series is rife with dates that are struck with weak strikes and you’ll pay a premium for a Strong or Full Details coin. It is advisable to stay away from Weak Details struck coins; unless, you are going after one of the Key Date or Semi-Key Date coins. In those instances, you’ll have to do what your budget will allow. You will probably not see many Full Detail circulated coins. These are rare and come at a huge premium. Only the Proof coins come with Full Details out of the mint.</p><p><br /></p><p>Below are coins from my collection that best approximate the Weak Detail, Typical Detail & Strong Detail coins. The Strong Details 1926 is the closest I have to a Full Details coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>This 1925 Denver minted Nickel is considered a Weak Details strike. Notice that the date & “Liberty” bleed in to the rim and the hair is less defined on the Obverse. On the Reverse, there is absolutely no hair on the Bison’s shoulder above the left leg. The mint mark and “Five Cents” also look flat and the Bison’s horn doesn’t have much of a point on it. The whole front left leg is simply flat. This coin isn’t slabbed but was graded by a prestigious coin dealer at AU-58 and I’ve seen many slabbed AU-58’s that look the same.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]156059.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]156060.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>This 1914 Philadelphia coin is graded MS-65 by NGC. I consider this a Typical Details strike. Notice that on the Obverse that none of the letters bleed in to the rim and that there is a little more definition to the hair. Also, the date stands out fully. On the Reverse, the “Five Cents” is full and you can see tufts of hair on the Bison’s shoulder.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]156061.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]156062.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>This 1926 Philadelphia issue is graded MS-65 by ANACS. This is the closest I have to a Strong Details strike. Due to a 5 image upload limit, I am showing the Reverse of this coins. Trust me, all details on the Obverse are bold. On the Reverse, there is full hair definition on the front left shoulder and hair details are even visible on the bottom of the front left leg. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]156064.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The vast majority of my coins are Typical Details coins with a couple of Weak Details and the one Strong Details coin above.</p><p><br /></p><p>I do not own any Full Details coins. I have not come across any circulation Full Details coins that I could afford nor do I own any proofs. To get an idea of what a Full Details Buffalo Nickel looks like, take a look any Proof issue.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have been collecting these for 5 years now. Started building an AU raw set and then started an NGC Registry set. I still have an extremely hard time determining the difference between wear and strike deficiencies on these coins. They are extremely hard to grade (in my opinion). I have utilized the expertise of a couple of dealers to build my sets. The only coins I buy on my own, are the inexpensive ones. </p><p><br /></p><p>If one is going to get involved in collecting this series, there are two books that I highly recommend. The first one is mentioned above and is Mr. Q. David Bowers’ “A Guide Book of Buffalo & Jefferson Nickels. The second is Mr. David W. Lange’s “The Complete Guide to Buffalo Nickels”.</p><p><br /></p><p>Comments welcome.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="TexasJarhead, post: 1348283, member: 9141"][b]Buffalo Nickels and their strikes[/b] The Buffalo Nickel is an iconic American series that was the workhorse of its day. Presidents Wilson, Harding, Coolidge, Hoover & Roosevelt presided over the country while this nickel was in service; the Philadelphia Athletics beat the New York Giants in the World Series; and young children could take this Nickel and buy a box of Cracker Jacks, which debuted in 1913. A new design was authorized and artists commenced submitting their designs for the new Nickel. A design by James Earl Fraser was selected. The new design reflected an ideal of the American West with the iconic Native American on the Obverse and the North American Bison on the Reverse. The key to collecting in the Buffalo Nickel series is to select coins based on their details. Mr Q. David Bowers, in his “A Guide Book of Buffalo & Jefferson Nickels”, delineates four types of strikes. Weak Detail, Typical Detail, Strong Detail & Full Detail strikes. I consider strike above grade when I am looking at a new coin. I have chosen Typical Details struck MS-64 coins over Weak Details struck MS-65’s many times. This series is rife with dates that are struck with weak strikes and you’ll pay a premium for a Strong or Full Details coin. It is advisable to stay away from Weak Details struck coins; unless, you are going after one of the Key Date or Semi-Key Date coins. In those instances, you’ll have to do what your budget will allow. You will probably not see many Full Detail circulated coins. These are rare and come at a huge premium. Only the Proof coins come with Full Details out of the mint. Below are coins from my collection that best approximate the Weak Detail, Typical Detail & Strong Detail coins. The Strong Details 1926 is the closest I have to a Full Details coin. This 1925 Denver minted Nickel is considered a Weak Details strike. Notice that the date & “Liberty” bleed in to the rim and the hair is less defined on the Obverse. On the Reverse, there is absolutely no hair on the Bison’s shoulder above the left leg. The mint mark and “Five Cents” also look flat and the Bison’s horn doesn’t have much of a point on it. The whole front left leg is simply flat. This coin isn’t slabbed but was graded by a prestigious coin dealer at AU-58 and I’ve seen many slabbed AU-58’s that look the same. [ATTACH]156059.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]156060.vB[/ATTACH] This 1914 Philadelphia coin is graded MS-65 by NGC. I consider this a Typical Details strike. Notice that on the Obverse that none of the letters bleed in to the rim and that there is a little more definition to the hair. Also, the date stands out fully. On the Reverse, the “Five Cents” is full and you can see tufts of hair on the Bison’s shoulder. [ATTACH]156061.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]156062.vB[/ATTACH] This 1926 Philadelphia issue is graded MS-65 by ANACS. This is the closest I have to a Strong Details strike. Due to a 5 image upload limit, I am showing the Reverse of this coins. Trust me, all details on the Obverse are bold. On the Reverse, there is full hair definition on the front left shoulder and hair details are even visible on the bottom of the front left leg. [ATTACH]156064.vB[/ATTACH] The vast majority of my coins are Typical Details coins with a couple of Weak Details and the one Strong Details coin above. I do not own any Full Details coins. I have not come across any circulation Full Details coins that I could afford nor do I own any proofs. To get an idea of what a Full Details Buffalo Nickel looks like, take a look any Proof issue. I have been collecting these for 5 years now. Started building an AU raw set and then started an NGC Registry set. I still have an extremely hard time determining the difference between wear and strike deficiencies on these coins. They are extremely hard to grade (in my opinion). I have utilized the expertise of a couple of dealers to build my sets. The only coins I buy on my own, are the inexpensive ones. If one is going to get involved in collecting this series, there are two books that I highly recommend. The first one is mentioned above and is Mr. Q. David Bowers’ “A Guide Book of Buffalo & Jefferson Nickels. The second is Mr. David W. Lange’s “The Complete Guide to Buffalo Nickels”. Comments welcome.[/QUOTE]
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