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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;jmon, post: 634974, member: 19422&quot;]<span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">I agree, this thread has gone way off topic; however, to keep in the spirit of the moment I have to add my two cents <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></font></span></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">Personally, I will pay more for PCGS. Why? I don&#039;t really have a good reason. Perhaps I <b><font face="Verdana">feel</font></b> they are a little better, perhaps a little more consistent, most likely it is dain bramage though. I know there are other companies out there that do good work, and in some cases better work. But, I like PCGS so, I will pay more for their name. The question to me is how much more... the answer - not much!</font></span></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">Now, certified coins in general: As long as it is a reputable company I will always pay more for a certified MS65 than I will what I think is a raw MS65. As good as I would like to think I am at grading, I am no pro. Further, when I look at a coin I am biased. I am looking at something I like - something I want. Therefore I am willing to pay for assurance from a third party that the coin is what I think it is - genuine and at or </font></span><b><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">very near</font></font></b><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana"> the grade I think it is. However, one must realize that a certified coin can be improperly graded/slabbed, etc… There are a ton of them out there. I think far too few people attempt to grade a coin themselves before purchasing a certified coin, and that is a mistake. I am willing to concede one or perhaps even two points - but, I have seen coins listed as AU that I would say are </font></span><b><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">at </font></font></b><b><font face="Times New Roman"><font size="3">best </font></font></b><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">XF and the other way around. Those coins I will not buy unless the seller is willing to accept a reasonable price for the TRUE grade.</font></span></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">Bottom line - you need to look at what you buy and make sure it is, to you, worth the agreed price. That price may be well over or under any price guide out there. </font></span></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><span style="color: black"><font face="Verdana">Now, back to the original topic – there is no definitive guide for me. I consult my Redbook, Greysheet (or Bluesheet), Ebay (both current and completed listings), PCGS, ect… I look everywhere to see what the asking prices are and sales prices. Based off of a little research I can come to what I think is good price. This will let me know whether IMO I have a good deal or need to move on, and if dealing face-to-face with someone I have arguments to backup my offer.</font></span>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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