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<p>[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 764412, member: 112"]All of this has been discussed many times, but it always comes back up and so needs to be dicussed again from time to time.</p><p><br /></p><p>You will undoubtably hear several people who advocate dipping all coins in acetone to prepare them for storage. As you mention it is done to remove any oils from handling and light surface contaminants, like that dust you mention.</p><p><br /></p><p>Personally, I do not agree with this line of thinking. There are certain risks involved with even acetone. It's purity could come into question for one. And contaminants in the acetone could remain on the coin and later damage it. Handling during the process is another risk. And certain metals, particularly copper, can sometimes react with acetone and cause color changes. So I only advocate using acetone when it needs to be used instead of using it indiscriminantly. Same things can be said of denatured alcohol.</p><p><br /></p><p>Regarding the dust on the coin you pictured - sometimes it is just that, dust. And dust can be removed with air, thus removing any need to touch the coin with anything. Using that feather duster you mention - bad idea. It can and will cause hairlines on the coin. You do not want to touch the coin with anything, regardless of how soft you think it is. Use air, plain air and no damage will occur.</p><p><br /></p><p>Canned air is one method, but that too has some risk. The propellants (chemicals) in the canned air can sometimes get on the coin. But with care it can be used safely. But the risk is always there for if you tilt the can even slightly some liquid may escape and get on the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Perhaps better and safer is a new bulb squeeze, often used to remove mucus from babies' mouths and noses. A sharp squeeze causes a jet of air to blow the fine dust particles away with no harm to the coin. But you want to make sure it is a new one.</p><p><br /></p><p>Never blow on a coin with your mouth. Fine particles of saliva that you can't even see will get on the coin and later cause spots. You should even avoid talking over your coins for the same reason. And of course coughing and sneezing around them - big no-no.</p><p><br /></p><p>For similar reasons, 2x2s are a bad idea. The paper, even if sulphur free, still deteroirates and creates cardboard/paper dust. This dust will scratch coins as they move ever so slightly inside the 2x2.</p><p><br /></p><p>Any coin worth having in your collection is worth the cost of a quality holder for it. Air-Tites are among the best and the cheapest, 40 cents each or less for any of them.</p><p><br /></p><p>Something else to always remember, those little white specks you see sometimes see on coins are not always dust particles just sitting on the coin. Often they are struck right into the metal as the coin is made. And by the time you get the coin and see it - the dust particle is no longer even there. But the tiny flaw caused by it is, and it will be forever.</p><p><br /></p><p>Regarding the second coin you pictured - what you see on it is one of two things and maybe both, PVC residue and/or verdigris. Acetone will remove any PVC residue - one of the times when acetone is actually needed and should be used to protect the coin from additional damage. And a product called Verdigone will remove most if not all of the verdigris. Both products can cause color changes to the coin, so that must be considered. But leaving it there is the last thing you want to do.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now the inventor of Verdigone is a member of this forum and I will let him provide instructions for its use. But the correct proceedure for acetone is simple enough, but it needs to be followed and no shortcuts taken.</p><p><br /></p><p>Always use acetone in a well ventilated area. You need 4 shallow bowls. Three have a small amount of pure acetone in them, just enough to cover the coin. The first dip should always be the longest. Length of time may vary from 10 minutes to overnight depending on the severity of the contamination. </p><p><br /></p><p>Once that is completed, dispose of the acetone from the first bowl, never re-use it. In fact always dispose of the acetone once it is used, never re-use any of it. And do not just pour it down the sink for it can dissolve some types of drain lines. Put it a metal can and take it to a hazardous materials disposal site.</p><p><br /></p><p>The second dip should be at least a minute or so. The 3rd dip can follow right after and a few seconds is enough. The 4th dip should be in distilled water, again for a few seconds. </p><p><br /></p><p>After than, have a soft cloth on the counter or table and stand the coin on edge, and carefully lean it up against something like the counter backsplash. Let it air dry. I know many advocate blotting the coin dry with a soft towel, but that to me is too risky. Too easy to hairline the coin, especially a Proof. It won't take long for it to air dry and there is no risk that way.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once finished, then place the coin a proper holder and you're done.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 764412, member: 112"]All of this has been discussed many times, but it always comes back up and so needs to be dicussed again from time to time. You will undoubtably hear several people who advocate dipping all coins in acetone to prepare them for storage. As you mention it is done to remove any oils from handling and light surface contaminants, like that dust you mention. Personally, I do not agree with this line of thinking. There are certain risks involved with even acetone. It's purity could come into question for one. And contaminants in the acetone could remain on the coin and later damage it. Handling during the process is another risk. And certain metals, particularly copper, can sometimes react with acetone and cause color changes. So I only advocate using acetone when it needs to be used instead of using it indiscriminantly. Same things can be said of denatured alcohol. Regarding the dust on the coin you pictured - sometimes it is just that, dust. And dust can be removed with air, thus removing any need to touch the coin with anything. Using that feather duster you mention - bad idea. It can and will cause hairlines on the coin. You do not want to touch the coin with anything, regardless of how soft you think it is. Use air, plain air and no damage will occur. Canned air is one method, but that too has some risk. The propellants (chemicals) in the canned air can sometimes get on the coin. But with care it can be used safely. But the risk is always there for if you tilt the can even slightly some liquid may escape and get on the coin. Perhaps better and safer is a new bulb squeeze, often used to remove mucus from babies' mouths and noses. A sharp squeeze causes a jet of air to blow the fine dust particles away with no harm to the coin. But you want to make sure it is a new one. Never blow on a coin with your mouth. Fine particles of saliva that you can't even see will get on the coin and later cause spots. You should even avoid talking over your coins for the same reason. And of course coughing and sneezing around them - big no-no. For similar reasons, 2x2s are a bad idea. The paper, even if sulphur free, still deteroirates and creates cardboard/paper dust. This dust will scratch coins as they move ever so slightly inside the 2x2. Any coin worth having in your collection is worth the cost of a quality holder for it. Air-Tites are among the best and the cheapest, 40 cents each or less for any of them. Something else to always remember, those little white specks you see sometimes see on coins are not always dust particles just sitting on the coin. Often they are struck right into the metal as the coin is made. And by the time you get the coin and see it - the dust particle is no longer even there. But the tiny flaw caused by it is, and it will be forever. Regarding the second coin you pictured - what you see on it is one of two things and maybe both, PVC residue and/or verdigris. Acetone will remove any PVC residue - one of the times when acetone is actually needed and should be used to protect the coin from additional damage. And a product called Verdigone will remove most if not all of the verdigris. Both products can cause color changes to the coin, so that must be considered. But leaving it there is the last thing you want to do. Now the inventor of Verdigone is a member of this forum and I will let him provide instructions for its use. But the correct proceedure for acetone is simple enough, but it needs to be followed and no shortcuts taken. Always use acetone in a well ventilated area. You need 4 shallow bowls. Three have a small amount of pure acetone in them, just enough to cover the coin. The first dip should always be the longest. Length of time may vary from 10 minutes to overnight depending on the severity of the contamination. Once that is completed, dispose of the acetone from the first bowl, never re-use it. In fact always dispose of the acetone once it is used, never re-use any of it. And do not just pour it down the sink for it can dissolve some types of drain lines. Put it a metal can and take it to a hazardous materials disposal site. The second dip should be at least a minute or so. The 3rd dip can follow right after and a few seconds is enough. The 4th dip should be in distilled water, again for a few seconds. After than, have a soft cloth on the counter or table and stand the coin on edge, and carefully lean it up against something like the counter backsplash. Let it air dry. I know many advocate blotting the coin dry with a soft towel, but that to me is too risky. Too easy to hairline the coin, especially a Proof. It won't take long for it to air dry and there is no risk that way. Once finished, then place the coin a proper holder and you're done.[/QUOTE]
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