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<p>[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 2967967, member: 77413"]I take a series of still photos and join them together. These animations are just GIF files, one of the oldest and most widely supported of web image types. They have their limitations but work surprisingly well in spite of them.</p><p><br /></p><p>There are a couple of threads and posts where the basics are covered. These may give you all the information you need, but if not, or if you have any questions, just let me know.</p><p><br /></p><p>The technique is presented, and other contributors help improve it, in <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/animation-and-coin-photography.297411/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/animation-and-coin-photography.297411/">Animation and Coin Photography</a></p><p><br /></p><p>A method where I moved the coin under the lights: <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2902603/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2902603/">Post your Lincolns!</a></p><p><br /></p><p>And a description of the latest refinements that I am using for these photos: <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2938493/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2938493/">Post your coin photography set-up</a></p><p><br /></p><p>For a long while, I moved the coin under the camera to get different lighting angles. The hard part about that is that each image needs to be aligned and positioned to match the others.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now I am keeping the coin in a fixed position under the camera and rotating the coin and camera together under the lighting. The coin does not have as much apparent motion as the first technique. This is a lot easier to work with and the overlay of the images is more exact.</p><p><br /></p><p>There is still some apparent perspective shift in the final animation because the light hits the contours of the coin at slightly different elevations as you move them. So the coin appears to move slightly because the bright highlights are shifting with regard to the rest of the image.</p><p><br /></p><p>This may make more complete sense after reading the original thread and the other two posts. The original thread is fairly short and the technique evolves a bit over the 4 pages of the thread.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]727684[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="RonSanderson, post: 2967967, member: 77413"]I take a series of still photos and join them together. These animations are just GIF files, one of the oldest and most widely supported of web image types. They have their limitations but work surprisingly well in spite of them. There are a couple of threads and posts where the basics are covered. These may give you all the information you need, but if not, or if you have any questions, just let me know. The technique is presented, and other contributors help improve it, in [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/threads/animation-and-coin-photography.297411/']Animation and Coin Photography[/URL] A method where I moved the coin under the lights: [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2902603/']Post your Lincolns![/URL] And a description of the latest refinements that I am using for these photos: [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/posts/2938493/']Post your coin photography set-up[/URL] For a long while, I moved the coin under the camera to get different lighting angles. The hard part about that is that each image needs to be aligned and positioned to match the others. Now I am keeping the coin in a fixed position under the camera and rotating the coin and camera together under the lighting. The coin does not have as much apparent motion as the first technique. This is a lot easier to work with and the overlay of the images is more exact. There is still some apparent perspective shift in the final animation because the light hits the contours of the coin at slightly different elevations as you move them. So the coin appears to move slightly because the bright highlights are shifting with regard to the rest of the image. This may make more complete sense after reading the original thread and the other two posts. The original thread is fairly short and the technique evolves a bit over the 4 pages of the thread. [ATTACH=full]727684[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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