The PCGS price guide, which is only a guide has a 1916-S in MS65BN at $775. Actual PCGS auction results range from $480-$840. NGC results range from $408-$705, with one selling for $1119 in 2013. The PCGS guide for 66BN is $7500 although there are none graded (there is one 66+BN). The last 3 NGC auction results are much lower, still very good at $2880, $1763 and $1495
Thanks, everyone. I’m feelin’ purty good about this penny! For fun, here are screenshots taken of an MS66 BN at Heritage. It sold for $2880 last year. https://coins.ha.com/itm/lincoln-ce...mintage-22-510-000/a/1299-7263.s?type=NGC1299
I may be in the minority but I will take a MS brown any day over a MS red. I just absolutely LOVE them.
Tried to make a .gif like @RonSanderson does. I have gotta say, it is HARD work doing it. Mine is not up to his quality, and the shots are kinda 3rd class.I gotta hand it to you, Ron, I thought it was a walk in the park to get such images. I was dead wrong. But I am not gonna put that work in and not share it with the world. So here is my 1943-S lincoln cent ICG MS65 I really don't think I'll be doing this again in the future.
Well, I did write some software to help me do it. But the biggest breakthrough was mechanical. I put the camera and coin setup as a unit on a turntable and put the lights on the desk. The camera/coin rotate together so every shot is already exactly aligned in the frame in the same place, down to the last pixel. The software helps me crop them all to the same position and straighten them all by the exact same angle. But other packages support doing the same kind of thing and take out a lot of the hair-pulling and frustration!
I agree. In spite of your misgivings, it does show off the luster and the coin is outstanding. Another trick I forgot to mention is that I set the camera to fully manual settings. Once I set the focus and exposure it stays the same for all 9 of my images. That really helps with consistency of the images. I’ve shown this animation before, but here you can see the effects of Keeping the coin and camera in a constant position Forcing the camera settings to be the same for every shot Moving the lighting relative to the coin, in my case by using a turntable to rotate the camera and coin under the lights You’ve come this far! Are you sure you don’t want to keep trying?