Tomorrow. I'm on my "weekend" from work, and today is for domestic chores. Tomorrow we're supposed to be getting 8" of snow, and I'm going to spend the day staring at the monitor and shooting coins while it's overcast and outside light will be easier to block. I've two more coins waiting at the Post Office, and ten or fifteen waiting on my desk.
yeah, i know what thats like, this is my "sunday" funny you mention it....it was 60 degrees yesterday....we are slated for snow tomorrow as well! Sounds like you will have a busy day taking pictures...
Found it! Just arrived, completing my 1913 Lincoln year set. The others are in post #4219. This is a raw coin, so I have made my own assessment about grade. Y'all are free to speculate - it helps me calibrate my criteria to see if I am getting more capable.
I don't know what you mean, yet I feel like I know exactly what you mean. Naively I expect AU 58 to be worse than any of the MS states. But is there a tiny bit of rub on the cheek or not? If so, AU. If not, then what would keep a coin with this strike, color, and luster from being a mid-range MS? If I can't tell how it would grade, then I can only collect what I like. Of course, you may have meant something else entirely.
No, that's exactly what he meant. A nice AU is a more eye-appealing coin than anything Mint State under 63, and sometimes more than that. Like your 1913-S. In unrelated news, I'm going to post progress pics of the 1910-S so you don't think it didn't happen. Here's how it started: See the dark lines? Those are shadows of scratches in the plastic. Not to mention the smudge just behind the nose, the shadow of which is creating the dark spot on the beard. None of this crap was easily available to viewing the coin in hand, but under the focus of digital imagery it becomes a serious problem. I'm forcing a narrow depth of field which makes scratches all but disappear, but you can see their result. After everything but a jackhammer and the kitchen sink (no Dremel yet), here's where we are: Silly me - first time I've wetsanded a slab - I thought 2000 grit was fine enough, but I was wrong. It creates scratches that the headlight polish can't remove, costing me contrast, and I don't want to go grittier on the polish. So, there's some 3000 grit wetsanding on tap for it. Oh, here's the reverse: See the shadow from the base of the left wheat stalk? Yeah. Wax on, wax off....
Here's the TrueViews of it, forced to the same size as my images for comparison purposes. See the nick in the O of ONE visible in my pictures, or the nick in the field clockwise from the second T in TRUST? Me, neither. You know how I am about nicks in ONE CENT. It's not even that prominent in a 100% crop: Phil's a helluva photographer, but he's getting paid to make those coins look their best. Once I have the slab clean, I'm going to see if I can duplicate that color - it's there, all right, although the coin looks more like my images in "normal" light - and what happens to those marks when I do. Don't get me wrong, this coin's a 66 all day, but it's a cautionary tale about a little difference in lighting can do to the look - and the details - of a coin.
either way you look at it...thats a gorgeously toned, original coin....bet it looks even better in hand as its moved around letting light hit the luster highlighting those awesome tones!!
The point is, though, you have to manipulate lighting to get that color. You wont see it, if you look at it as you would "normally" look at a coin. The TrueViews are of a coin which doesn't really seem DB, almost, and the coin I have is at least half Red or more.
I liked your 1919 so much I thought I would try to see if the seller's picture could be dressed up a little. I hope you don't mind.