Post Your FUN Purchases Here !

So cool bet they will love that. I got my kids and grandkids all thier birthday coins but youngest grandkid I got him the lucky serial # Chinese dollar he is only 5. I got 2 2007, 1987, 1989, 2009, 2008. I didn't have the funds left for me 1970. But I didn't go empty handed I got pride of 2 nations.

 

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I like it. I like the old holder and the luster. And gold is soft. I think it accurately graded for the date and I’d try it at cac it won’t cost you much and be worth it if it beans pm me if you need help with that. I’m a member

 

You know, I'm surprised I didn't see more PO2N coin sets....would have been a nice alternative for those not wanting to pay up for the 2019-S ASE.

For the casual ASE buyer, getting the same type of coin but at much lower cost should have been an attractive selling point. I didn't see that many offered and not one advertised as a cheap way to get the same coin basically as the 2019-S at a fraction of the cost.

 

Yeah, I'm inquiring about CAC and also want to show it to some of my clients without whose generous year-end gratuities I would not have been able to get it. That's why I'm holding off on a fellow CT'er taking better photos of the coin right now. But I will eventually get some better photos of the coin and maybe a few others.

 

I had previously posted my FUN acquisitions and among those was a 1869 IHC that I got for its obverse clash and reverse die crack. The photo was terrible so I spent some time trying to get better shots and closeups of the interesting bits. The die crack was easy but the clash {the C(ENT) from the reverse} is only visible at an extreme angle. It is in the left field from the headband extending around and down to the bridge of Liberty's nose. I was only able to capture an edge by angling the slab and even then the depth of field limited what I could focus in on.

On a separate not, I have posted the combined photo in another thread on overgrading with my own comments on that topic.

 

Anyone know about what if this would grade and if yes should I send in to PCGS

 

I'm a bit perplexed by the whole "die crack" thing....if it's that hard to see, is it worth noticing or mentioning ?

And if a die crack is just another blemish, why do some collectors treasure them unlike an extra bag mark hit ? Isn't it just another minting or striking error ? Or is it evidence of something, like 100% authenticity or something ?

BTW, nice coin !

 

1902 Czar Nicholas II: Wasn't in the NGC database with the grade thought the listing was there. I contacted NGC and they re-entered it.

Disappointed that NGC didn't put "Czar Nicholas II" on the coin, that's the main attraction as I see it and not everybody might recognize the portrait. Oh well.....

I bought the coin because of the historical significance. It is about 1/8th of an ounce of gold.

 

This reply is off-topic for the thread so I apologize in advance but I wanted to respond to the question.

Goldfinger1969: The importance of die cracks and clashes is somewhat less important with IHCs since die technology was much better by the time that series came out than it was in the 18th and early 19th centuries. For those earlier issues, the die issues are used to determine the emission sequence of the coins and sometimes which engraver worked on the dies. For example, for some coins the development of a die crack can place the coin in the early, middle or late stage of the die's life. For collectors who collect by die state, and there are many, these characteristics are all important. Secondly, these characteristics along with other design elements are often used to help determine which obverse or reverse die was used to strike a coin, in other words to determine the "die marriage" for the coin. For Capped Bust half dollars, minted from 1807-36, there are hundreds of die marriages, each with their own Overton number. Similar systems exist for half dimes, dimes, quarters and dollars as well as the early minor coinage and the gold issues.

Clash marks occur when the dies are struck against each other without a planchet in between. This leaves impressions of the obverse die upon the reverse die and impressions of the reverse die upon the obverse die. When coins are struck from these damaged dies, not only is the correct impression made, but also impressions of the wrong die, almost exclusively showing up in the fields. The clash marks can range from faint to dramatic.

These are not mint errors as that term is usually understood. The coins are struck exactly as intended from the working dies. And they are most certainly not considered coin damage of any type any more than adjustment marks are considered damage. The diagnostics are used to help recreate history and to identify another interesting means of collecting. For example, in a single year of half dollar production there may be a dozen or more die marriages with rarity ratings from the most common R-1 all the way to the rarest R-7 or 8 for which only few or even 1 coin is known. These unique characteristics of our early coinage add interest and charm. If you have not yet been exposed to this interesting aspect of our hobby, you may find rich rewards there.

Some links to some of the clubs that focus on these matters:

http://www.busthalfnutclub.org/

https://www.jrcs.org/

https://eacs.org/

 

Thanks Publius...great information. And congrats again on a nice coin !

 

G-06, and no

 

1982-S Lincoln Penny: I don't collect pennies except for loose change. But this was relatively inexpensive, I liked the way it looked, 69 and Red and DCAM. I think it was another late-Sunday purchase.

Also, I figured if I was showing my coins to someone and wanted to get them interested, this wouldn't scare them off price-wise like a Saint or pricey Morgan.

 

So puuurrrrrty

 

2015 5-Ounce Wedge-Tailed Eagle: I love this design. When I pay a rich premium to silver it better be because of some artistic features that I really like. And this is one that I really do love -- unlike Kangaroos, Koalas, and Kookaburas (all from Australia) which are OK but not that great visually.

BTW, can anybody confirm that NGC and/or PCGS charge close to $60 to grade these 5-ounce silvers ? It's a pretty big slab. If true, it basically means that the "floor" for these 5-ouncers is about $150 or so (5 ounces of silver x $18.oz. + $60). Not that I am concerned, I know I am "overpaying" when I buy these as opposed to ungraded bullion and that's OK.

 

I said: " I'm amazed of the 23-D grade with the damage to devices/fields (i.e. significant "dings" on rays, bust and the scratch in obverse, bag rub?)".

It took some effort to locate the same date/mint-mark example in my collection that would represent how a MS66 1923-D coin should "technically" appear, virtually without "dings" or "scratches" on devices (i.e. rays and body), or bag rub. I can show you CACed MS63 and MS64 that are virtually as described.

The attached 1923-D MS65+ virtually perfect that I haven't yet CACed, should better show an under-graded coin, as I described for MS66 or better.

Please pardon my hastily produced poor images of a technically grade MS66 or better coin. Just look for virtually non-existent dings, scratches, in fields or devices, and bag rub. CLUE: one ding can be found on a obverse ray, and two on the reverse in the mid-feathers. The fields are without imperfections.

You are correct that your coin is believed superior, to many that I've seen, higher market-graded coins of today.

JMHO

 

You should really start your own separate thread concerning your Indian Head Cent. Just trying to help.

FUN show - Florida United Numismatics Convention
Did you attend this show? This thread is about purchases at the FUN show.

 

This is the second coin I found at FUN.

 

Wow, beautiful toning.

Were there many of these at FUN to choose from or were you very particular and only found this and maybe 1 other ?

 

Looks like a great coin, can you show as FULL ATTATCHMENT so we can zoom in on it easily ?

I'm not going to say I'm an expert on this Technical vs. Market Grading thing...but I believe the fact that an MS67 is a $12,000 coin is the reason why any STRONG MS66 1923-D....or CAC MS66...is going to sell for a nice premium and still not "split the difference" price-wise to an MS67.

In that back-and-forth in another thread with others, I saw some MS66's (I believe they were CAC or maybe 66+) going for over $5,000.

I point that out NOT because I wanted a coin that cost more, I didn't. I believe in buying the coin, not the slab or the sticker price. But some of the nicer looking ones definitely tack on 20-40% to the average MS66 price and it's only partway to an MS67 price-wise.

One of the higher-end dealers at FUN told me that they can sell some of the generic commons in Superb or near-Superb Gem Quality (66+/CAC or 67) because the coin still costs less than many other rare ones including the High Reliefs, if you want a superb-looking Saint-Gaudens.

 

My photo stand, camera system was obsoleted when Fire-Fox and Chrome refused to support XP-Pro/Vista/Etc., but I can still generate some Fat-32 images on an older operating system and browser, transfer as a limited viewing photo to a newer O.S.. The process produces limited size images that are often seen alike many eBay photos, where expansion isn't allowed.

I personally, although I use a Huawei Android smart-phone, I've refused to sacrifice my personal data to Google, who blocks many of my internet transmissions, including "FULL ATTATCHMENT" images. I believe a knowledgeable buyer can detect relative coin quality without being able to spread pixels.

I agree with you, in buying a coin regardless of the believed current un-uniform grading system. I can post MS63/64/65 graded coins, certified by the same firm, that may have better/equal technical presentation than some MS66 graded coins.

JMHO