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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;rmpsrpms, post: 2593979, member: 31773&quot;]The first pic you showed, taken with the iPhone, is an example of direct-reflection lighting. I&#039;ve often called this &quot;pseudo-axial&quot;, and it gives a bright illumination to the flat surfaces of the coin. The second images taken straight-on but with lights at a lower angle are near &quot;opposite&quot; of the pseudo-axial, as they show very little surface illumination, but a lot of highlighting of the edges of the devices. What you are probably looking for is something between these two extremes, though closer to the axial look. As SD says, with the Jansjos touching the sides of the lens, the reflection angle is at its maximum. Often I go <i>even further</i> and put the Jansjos <i>between</i> the lens and the coin. How close you can get depends on aperture, and you must avoid blocking your view of the coin while simultaneously not shining light directly up to the lens, but this is often the only way to get high enough angle to get close to axial while shooting straight-on.</p><p><br /></p><p>A while back I created a special way to shape the light coming from the Jansjos so that I could get as close to vertical as possible while not actually shining directly on the coin. I called these &quot;Smile Directors&quot; and you can do a Google search (&quot;smile directors coin photography&quot; works well) for posts to see how it&#039;s done. In those posts I described another special technique for placing a mirror where the coin goes so you can precisely position the lighting to maximize angle while avoiding reflections. This is especially important for slabbed coins so you can avoid glare off the slab surfaces.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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