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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;SuperDave, post: 2592814, member: 1892&quot;]You&#039;ll be limited a bit by the bulk of the camera with light placement; experimentation is in order. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Settings for the camera you used on the pics above: Macro focus mode, of course; &quot;Center&quot; AF Area; &quot;Spot&quot; or &quot;Center-weighted&quot; metering. Use Aperture Priority - set to one of the smaller (higher numerically) apertures, try f/5.6 to start, go wider if you can&#039;t get fast-enough exposures for a sharp shot - and let the camera determine exposure and compensation. Use the lowest-numerical ISO setting you can get away with, in no case higher than ISO200. With a firm-enough mount, you should be able to use exposures down to 1/20 or maybe even slower, as long as you&#039;re triggering the shutter on a timer. From the EXIF data on the images above, this should be easy. You managed 1/80 at f/5.6, meaning there&#039;s plenty of light.</p><p><br /></p><p>The minimum focusing distance of this camera increases rapidly as you zoom in; best to use it zoomed all the way out (31mm) as long as you can get enough space between camera and coin to effectively light it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Don&#039;t be afraid to use a little diffusion with your lighting, especially with copper. Circulated copper is difficult on contrast, because so little of it actually <i>exists</i> on the coin. I&#039;ve been known to add contrast in postprocessing.</p><p><br /></p><p>I suspect your iPhone will prove the better coin camera of the two. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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