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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;benveniste, post: 2229077, member: 25547&quot;]Copystand and lights:</p><p><img src="https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/wide-jpg.270184/" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>Low-powered Microscope:</p><p><img src="https://www.cointalk.com/attachments/scope-jpg.270185/" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>Light modifiers include &quot;shower cap&quot; diffusers, and a couple of different sized light tents.&nbsp; I also shoot with either a Nikon SC-21 ringlight (film camera) or a Nikon R1 system with two SB-R200 flash units (as shown in the first shot).</p><p><br /></p><p>When using the copystand, my primary camera is a Nikon D800, although I&#039;ll also shoot with a Pentax 645n.&nbsp; Most of my coin shots are done with a 105mm f/2.8 VR Micro-Nikkor, but I own 60mm and 180mm macro lenses as well.&nbsp; With the Pentax, I use a 120mm f/4 FA.&nbsp; I&#039;ll typically shoot coins at f/8-f/11, and trigger using a wired release.</p><p><br /></p><p>On the microscope I use a Nikon V1 mirrorless camera with a 1x relay lens.&nbsp; For lighting I use the LED ring light as show in the shot.&nbsp; There is no aperture control with this system, so exposure depends on magnification.&nbsp; With this setup, I either trigger using a infrared remote or just relay on a 5-second delay setting.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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