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<p>[QUOTE="bahabully, post: 1556236, member: 17555"]Just because a coin isn't in tpg plastic doesn't make it AT... a lot of the coins I buy raw are toners... some pretty AT looking imo and some NT imo... This issue I have is that I don't think anyone can look at a toned coin and say with 100% certainty that it is AT or NT... they can only guess, or play the odds and likelyhood that the coin could have toned in the pattern presented. Essentially a decision of MA.</p><p>I've submitted a few and the have seen some nice ones get slabbed by both pcgs and ngc.. and have had others bagged. More often bagged (I'm still learning too).</p><p>I do not doctor raw white coins.. I buy from local folks and generally only by raw toners because I get just as much enjoyment from the raw versions as I do the slabbed variety.. and I don't have to pay the insain premium (although I still sometimes do).</p><p><br /></p><p>For any raw toner buyer, the question I would focus on is what is generally MA (market acceptable)... and always beware of paying a premium for raw toners. I give this advice to anyone asking me that famous "is it AT or NT" in any of my auctions. Generally my stuff sells cheap, and I'm quite fine selling them that way as I'm glad to see fellow collectors enjoy the toner hobby and amass a nice collection of toners for a fraction of the cost of buying a single slabbed toner.</p><p><br /></p><p>By the way, I have had more than one buyer pm to tell me that they have done "very well" buying from me and requesting off the site sales. To which I generally decline gratefully.</p><p><br /></p><p>... we should create a new post imo,, looks like we have some passion on this one... good bar fight material ; ) Maybe a post where folks can post raw toners before submission and see how good folks on this forum are predicting the MA of toned coins. The only person to date I've seen with regularity predict grades and MA of toners is Wing, and that's with cents. Would love to see Mdude, gbroke, etc. (good guys imo) take a stab at buying a raw toner off the 'bay or elsewhere and seeing if they can accurately predict it's MA, post it here, and then see how it does. I'll do the same.. would be fun imo, and provide good content for new and old toner enthusiasts alike.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="bahabully, post: 1556236, member: 17555"]Just because a coin isn't in tpg plastic doesn't make it AT... a lot of the coins I buy raw are toners... some pretty AT looking imo and some NT imo... This issue I have is that I don't think anyone can look at a toned coin and say with 100% certainty that it is AT or NT... they can only guess, or play the odds and likelyhood that the coin could have toned in the pattern presented. Essentially a decision of MA. I've submitted a few and the have seen some nice ones get slabbed by both pcgs and ngc.. and have had others bagged. More often bagged (I'm still learning too). I do not doctor raw white coins.. I buy from local folks and generally only by raw toners because I get just as much enjoyment from the raw versions as I do the slabbed variety.. and I don't have to pay the insain premium (although I still sometimes do). For any raw toner buyer, the question I would focus on is what is generally MA (market acceptable)... and always beware of paying a premium for raw toners. I give this advice to anyone asking me that famous "is it AT or NT" in any of my auctions. Generally my stuff sells cheap, and I'm quite fine selling them that way as I'm glad to see fellow collectors enjoy the toner hobby and amass a nice collection of toners for a fraction of the cost of buying a single slabbed toner. By the way, I have had more than one buyer pm to tell me that they have done "very well" buying from me and requesting off the site sales. To which I generally decline gratefully. ... we should create a new post imo,, looks like we have some passion on this one... good bar fight material ; ) Maybe a post where folks can post raw toners before submission and see how good folks on this forum are predicting the MA of toned coins. The only person to date I've seen with regularity predict grades and MA of toners is Wing, and that's with cents. Would love to see Mdude, gbroke, etc. (good guys imo) take a stab at buying a raw toner off the 'bay or elsewhere and seeing if they can accurately predict it's MA, post it here, and then see how it does. I'll do the same.. would be fun imo, and provide good content for new and old toner enthusiasts alike.[/QUOTE]
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