Plays with axial lighting

here is the Hibernia previously posted in another thread (the obv and rev are different colors):

 

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Here is a 1947 Balboa I picked up cheap at a local coin show. One set is done with axial lighting, the other with daylight bulbs, one on each side of the copy stand. You can decide which you prefer.

 

Here is an 1876-CC Trade Dollar, very crusty, more scarce I/II variety:

 

Incredible setup!
So when you are photographing regular copper, you only turn on one light? The one facing directly onto the coin, the gooseneck seen in photo #2 on the bottom right. Obstructed by the eraser? Or do you turn on the other two lights as well?

 

Yes- just the one gooseneck light ,aimed straight into the tilted glass of the top frame, angled so that most of the light reflects down onto the coin. The eraser, or whatever one chooses to use, is just tall enough to block direct light from the lamp that might cause problem reflections on the coin. Although, in my setup, the frame is thick enough that its raised edge blocks most of that light.

 

That's interesting, I was actually talking to a fellow on coin zip, and he uses a similar setup for toned coins. I will most definitely have to give it a try.

 

I'm fairly amazed at the results; the key to the system working properly, for me, is the cord attached to the top frame and anchored to some projection on the copy stand pillar that allows precise adjustment of the angle of the frame and reflecting glass as I look through the viewfinder.

 

Question?
How do these images compare to the coin in hand?

I see a red cast to all the images.
Is your 100w light source an incandescent light bulb?
Could be the reason.

I've known about this method for quite a while but have been reluctant to go to all the effort (or expense) to make/obtain the setup.
But I'm still leaning towards giving it a try.

 

Actually, the images are pretty close to the actual coin colors. I have a preference for heavily tarnished coins, and a lot of these have a reddish-brown cast. The most gray coin in the bunch is the 1919 half-- I can just see a faint pinkish cast to it, but honestly I think that's part of the patina.
If you have a copy stand, you can make one of these setups for under $20.

 

Great stuff ksparrow.
Thanks for the lessons.

 

Yeah, this is a good post. The shots which show the set-up for the filter and lamps, along with the photo results are a great lesson. Definitely a setup worth considering for shooting coppers.

 

It's been a while since I've visited the eBay coin and paper money discussion board, but on the "Numismatography" thread 'larrymo' has posted many photos done with axial lighting of his CWT collection. I think it's great for copper.

 

I have a few more experiments with axial lighting. I am impressed with how well it handles copper. The surface conditions are rendered precisely (so precisely that some coins look worse than they actually are!). circulated silver looks great too, subtle patination that can only be seen inhand with the coin tilted jumps out under axial light. In fact, any circulated coin can be viewed as an artifact, with all the evidence of its handling laid out for you.
I have still not had much luck with slabbed coins, or with uncirculated bright silver.

First is this corroded 1794 Large Cent, which I paid way too much for some years back when I first started collecting. You can almost feel the pitted surface (yuk!):




Next is this Fugio Cent, which never looked "right" under dual direct lights. You can believe this coin "got around" some 220 years ago:




This 1828 Curl Base 2 CBH looks fairly dull beige unless the light hits it just right; then it becomes practically luminous; with conventional lighting you have to tilt the coin relative to the lens, have focus issues, etc. With axial light it's a no-brainer:




I found this WWII nickel in my pocket change a while back, who knows, maybe somebody bought a newspaper with it to read about the D-Day landings. Maybe it was in my Dad's pocket at one time and bought a Coke in the old thick 10oz green glass bottle. Kind of takes you back.




With axial light, copper actually looks like copper, not like mud.




Anyway, it's fun to play with. I'm going to try and re image a very brown, crusty seated liberty dollar from my 1840's set and post it later. Thanks for checking out the thread!

 

wonderful & Thanks

:bow:

Shots like that take effort.

And you still have the goods?

 

Thanks, Dok. It goes pretty fast once the reflecting glass angle is adjusted just right.

More silver: AU Peace Dollar




A deeply toned Morgan that was in an old folder in my Dad's lock box for about 40 years; regular lighting caused too much flash on the cheek for my taste.




This 1843 Dollar has a thick, brown tone; regular lighting makes it look too flat and dull; with axial light you can see the luster around the devices and the design 'pops out.'




Another Fugio:
Axial light seems to show the surface texture and color better than standard lighting, imo, but it's a close call.

 

Thanks for the very informative thread. I really like the way this set up shows the relief of the coins. What F stop are you using? In regards to the Balboa, I like the first photo for displaying the relief (which I assume was shot with the axial set up); however, the second shot seems to show the luster better. I hope you continue to share your results and observations. - PS - Nice coins!

 

Thanks, Rick.. I agree with you that the standard lighting tends to show luster 'rays' better than the axial setup. My lens is a 105mm Micro-Nikkor (manual) mounted on a D-40. Using the 100 watt bulb, even at f/4 or f/5.6, which are the sharpest apertures, exposures on the dark coins were less than 1/20 of a second, down to about 1/5 in some cases-- so I used the timer feature to limit shake. I have a remote trigger but it needs a battery.

 

That's a fabulous photo!

I never tried circulated toned raw coins when I played around with it. Next time I break out the contraption, I will be sure to -- that's a fantastic shot of a difficult to photo coin.

Thanks for posting your results!

 

Wow that difference is incredible! I love how the axial lighting makes the coins pop! Guess I've found myself a summer project lol!

 

I was never able to obtain an image of this coin that conveyed it's appearance accurately until I started fiddling with axial lighting:




Looks like the camera shook a bit, I'll have to redo it, but you get the general idea!