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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Denis Richard, post: 4649011, member: 112673&quot;]Glad to hear you’re trying out axial lighting. I hope you like it as much as I do. </p><p><br /></p><p>I don’t know if I mentioned it already, but I only use axial lighting to shoot raw coins. I have a different set up for certified coins and a third if I want high contrast proof coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>Obviously, the only thing that can make a difference to image sharpness with axial lighting is the glass plate. Personally, I haven’t noticed any appreciable loss of sharpness with my set up. I think the biggest difference is I’m not using a 2:1 magnification lens, as you are. My lens is a 1:1 ratio. I guess that might have some impact on sharpness through the glass. I assume you eliminate camera shake, use a trigger, clean the glass, and all that good stuff before you shoot.</p><p><br /></p><p>I’m a Nikon guy, using an AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED lens. I usually shoot at f14, 1/200 sec, with a 500 watt studio strobe.&nbsp; I don’t have any motion blur or ambient light issues, though I occasionally have to focus stack a flat shot with thicker coins.&nbsp; I&#039;m using a Nikon D810 and my shots come out of the camera pretty sharp. </p><p><br /></p><p>Out of curiosity, how close are you to the glass when you’re shooting?&nbsp; I’m about ¾” above the glass, and about five inches above the coin at my lenses minimum focus distance of 12 ¼”. With larger coins I can be 12” – 16” above it.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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