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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Denis Richard, post: 4553623, member: 112673&quot;]I&#039;ve always loved the look of the 1966 10 Scilling Easter Rising coin. You mentioned you used axial lighting with it. I assume you had the glass on a 45 degree angle, and parallel to the light source. This is the way they show using it on most of the YouTube videos I&#039;ve seen, and you mentioned your images with axial lighting can appear &quot;utterly washed out others and flattened frosty luster.&quot;&nbsp; That&#039;s not surprising. I assume you&#039;ve used axial lighting like it shows on YouTube. Personally, over thousands of coin images, I&#039;ve found it is rarely the best way to use it, unless your coin is completely matte. Your images will benefit enormously if you rotate the glass plate on the z axis, from the center of the coin (from the camera perspective) to remove glare and take full advantage of the gradation of light that is provided with the system when it is used more creatively. I have photographed this same type of coin many times with axial lighting. Here is an example of one. The glass plate was rotated about 10 degrees, and all of the glare in the background disappears.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1127554[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>There is a long photographic explanation on the properties of light, reflection and optics that details why this makes such a difference, but for here, suffice it to say it does. Below is an angled view of the same coin, in the same&nbsp; lighting rig, with axial lighting support in the shadows.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1127555[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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