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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4551157, member: 112673"]This image is right out of camera. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1126692[/ATTACH] </p><p>The white background appears greyish in the image because it’s underexposed. That is perfectly normal with axial lighting, when you’re using the same light source to illuminate both the coin and the background. You need much less light to expose a coin correctly than you do to expose a white background to appear pure white. </p><p><br /></p><p>This is the same coin cut out and put on a white field. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1126693[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Regarding your other questions, I'll start with the last one first. I'm not that worried about the white balance. I use a studio strobe so I set mine to "Flash". even with that, I shoot in raw, so I can change the white balance on any image, at any time, by need or desire. Second, I use a colour management software, X-rite Color Checker Passport, to create a colour profile for my axial lighting setup that I apply to all the images taken with it. This keeps all the colours accurate and consistent.</p><p><br /></p><p>The other two questions require a longer explanation than I can reasonably type here, but the very short answers are light modifiers, contrast control with the diffuser, and focus stacking. I'm putting a video together of my process and it will cover those issues.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4551157, member: 112673"]This image is right out of camera. [ATTACH=full]1126692[/ATTACH] The white background appears greyish in the image because it’s underexposed. That is perfectly normal with axial lighting, when you’re using the same light source to illuminate both the coin and the background. You need much less light to expose a coin correctly than you do to expose a white background to appear pure white. This is the same coin cut out and put on a white field. [ATTACH=full]1126693[/ATTACH] Regarding your other questions, I'll start with the last one first. I'm not that worried about the white balance. I use a studio strobe so I set mine to "Flash". even with that, I shoot in raw, so I can change the white balance on any image, at any time, by need or desire. Second, I use a colour management software, X-rite Color Checker Passport, to create a colour profile for my axial lighting setup that I apply to all the images taken with it. This keeps all the colours accurate and consistent. The other two questions require a longer explanation than I can reasonably type here, but the very short answers are light modifiers, contrast control with the diffuser, and focus stacking. I'm putting a video together of my process and it will cover those issues.[/QUOTE]
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