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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4519588, member: 112673"]As a professional numismatic photographer, might I offer a few additions and clarifications to the comments above. </p><p><br /></p><p>First thing, <span style="font-size: 16px"><font face="Verdana"><span style="color: rgb(20, 20, 20)">a black piece of felt (?) absorbs most of the light, but black velvet is the best material. Perhaps that's what was intended and "velt" was an auto corrected issue.</span></font></span></p><p><br /></p><p>More importantly, unless you want a dark and moody coin shot, don't photograph your coin on a black background. As Roerbakmix mentioned, t<span style="font-size: 16px"><font face="Verdana"><span style="color: rgb(20, 20, 20)">hat black background absorbs all the light, including the light you need to illuminate the edges and face of your coin. </span></font></span></p><p>Instead, photograph it on a white background and in post production, your editing software, cut it out and place it on a black background, or any background of your choice. Shoot it on white and place it on black, like the images below.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1119651[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1119648[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1119649[/ATTACH]</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p>Next, axial lighting in a static form, like all of the YouTube videos show, is only the beginning. To shoot images like mine, you need to rotate the glass in 2 directions, in small increments for maximum effect. If the glass were a plane, it needs to rotate it in the pitch and yaw positions. You also need to rotate the coins while looking at them thought the view finder.</p><p><br /></p><p>Which way is up? Everyone seems to think you need to place the coin upright, as you'd look at it in the final image, and shoot it that way. Not the case at all... I rotate the coin, and the glass until the light falls on it the way I want to see it. Sometimes that's upside down. In post production, my editing software, I cut it out you also rotate it to the final view position.</p><p><br /></p><p>I agree with placing the coin above the background. More than anything, it defocus' the background, which is important when selecting / isolating the coin image. I use the clear plastic cap from one of my wife's pump hairspray bottles. I have several sizes, depending on the size of the coin. The clear plastic lets light pass through it and doesn't cast a shadow. My coins sit about an inch above the rotator top.</p><p><br /></p><p>I understand many people aren't handy with photo editing software. It does have a big learning curve, but the unfortunate fact is, it is essential to quality coin images. Every image, no matter how perfect in camera, still needs some editing.</p><p><br /></p><p>oh.. I assume you are shooting raw files and not jpgs. If not, that's a topic for a different discussion.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4519588, member: 112673"]As a professional numismatic photographer, might I offer a few additions and clarifications to the comments above. First thing, [SIZE=16px][FONT=Verdana][COLOR=rgb(20, 20, 20)]a black piece of felt (?) absorbs most of the light, but black velvet is the best material. Perhaps that's what was intended and "velt" was an auto corrected issue.[/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] More importantly, unless you want a dark and moody coin shot, don't photograph your coin on a black background. As Roerbakmix mentioned, t[SIZE=16px][FONT=Verdana][COLOR=rgb(20, 20, 20)]hat black background absorbs all the light, including the light you need to illuminate the edges and face of your coin. [/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE] Instead, photograph it on a white background and in post production, your editing software, cut it out and place it on a black background, or any background of your choice. Shoot it on white and place it on black, like the images below. [ATTACH=full]1119651[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1119648[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1119649[/ATTACH] Next, axial lighting in a static form, like all of the YouTube videos show, is only the beginning. To shoot images like mine, you need to rotate the glass in 2 directions, in small increments for maximum effect. If the glass were a plane, it needs to rotate it in the pitch and yaw positions. You also need to rotate the coins while looking at them thought the view finder. Which way is up? Everyone seems to think you need to place the coin upright, as you'd look at it in the final image, and shoot it that way. Not the case at all... I rotate the coin, and the glass until the light falls on it the way I want to see it. Sometimes that's upside down. In post production, my editing software, I cut it out you also rotate it to the final view position. I agree with placing the coin above the background. More than anything, it defocus' the background, which is important when selecting / isolating the coin image. I use the clear plastic cap from one of my wife's pump hairspray bottles. I have several sizes, depending on the size of the coin. The clear plastic lets light pass through it and doesn't cast a shadow. My coins sit about an inch above the rotator top. I understand many people aren't handy with photo editing software. It does have a big learning curve, but the unfortunate fact is, it is essential to quality coin images. Every image, no matter how perfect in camera, still needs some editing. oh.. I assume you are shooting raw files and not jpgs. If not, that's a topic for a different discussion.[/QUOTE]
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