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clorox and Idhair: How can I adjust f-stop on 60mm as it was designed at f/2.8 or I was able to increase f-stop despite the device stated at f/2.8?

 

You are shooting with a Canon camera, correct? You should set the camera to Aperture Priority ("A" setting). Then, adjust to f/8 using the arrow keys on the back of your camera. In Aperture Priority you set the f/stop value, and the camera does the light metering and exposure part for you based on the available light.

 

geekpryde: Yes, I agree that there is no "right way" to do it as I have seen many different suggest and the book that I bought did explained few different ways to take a picture. I will need to keep practice until find my own setting. My first batch of pictures to use Macro lens is too short and not much of time to practice, but I like macro lens and will get one soon. I will continue practice after get my own lens. Thank you for tips.

 

robec: I did rented two lens. (60mm and 100mm) I didn't see any different between both of them, but I think 100mm will be benefit for close up clear quality like mintmark? Only different between both lens is $600 more for 100mm "L" Macro IS USM.

 

Ugh -- it sounds like you got a set of tubes that don't carry the control signals to the lens. I don't think there's any way on EOS lenses to adjust the aperture manually.

I'll try to remember to look up the brand of my extension tubes. They were pretty cheap, as I recall, and they do carry focus and aperture signals to the lens.

 

I did purchase that tube kit after you recommend. I did tested it and yes, AF, aperture and other option on lens will not work. I notice tube has no electric connection between lens to body. I have to do manually on focus and other setting. The quality of picture is ok, but not best as Macro lens.

 

Thanks for tip, I will try that when I buy my own Macro lens.

 

It's a great lens, to be sure. But the vanilla 100mm macro is optically stellar as well, and I'm unconvinced about the stabilization features on the L macro -- to get decent coin shots, you're going to be using a copystand or tripod anyhow, probably with mirror lockup and/or remote release, right?

For the money, I'd be more tempted to go with the MP-E, an extremely specialized macro lens that lets you go from 1:1 to 5:1 magnification. At 5:1, I think a dime's date would more than fill your field of view, and you'd be getting pretty close to the theoretical maximum resolution possible with a visible-light camera (wavelength ~= pixel size). It's not a lens to start out with, but I'd love to move up to it one day.