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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 7745118, member: 19463"]I would encourage you to try the Focus bracketing on the R5 (R6 and RP also) but it does not work with flash and it requires a lens with auto focus so the 65 is out. At the moment I have only a dozen coins at home so I was limited on what to try but found a couple that gave reasonable results with the flash and more that just did not work since my flashes lack modelling lights and little angle differences can make a big difference. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I have a long standing love/hate with ring lights. First, there are many very different beasts that call themselves 'ringlights'. The common and cheap ones tend to be many tiny LED's arranged in a ring and work well for coins that respond to the concept. Many so called rings are actually a circular frame with just two lights (right and left) not at all adjustable. The twin lights like the Canon MT-26EX-RT allow adjustment of angles and intensity which is fine but just two lights with no controls has never worked for me. I have an antique (2008) Sigma 'ring' flash like this. It makes well exposed and sharp photos with no personality. Some people look beautiful in their Passport photos; others not so much. I have coins that look good whatever I do when photographing. I should buy more coins like that. </p><p><br /></p><p>The image below illustrates why I do not like flash for coins. The four images (two of each side) were taken with the same 'ring' flash (actually two flashes mounted in a ring holder). The images differ because of a very small rotation of the ring that changed where the glares would fall. This could have been made softer with more diffusion but I prefer to be able to see the effect I am to get before I shoot. Here are a couple choices but there are thousands of other minute angle changes. I see great differences in these and want to be able to preview each angle change. 'Better' flashes may have modelling lights that allow preview of what to expect but my experience is that they do not position the modelling bulb in exactly the same place as the flash tube so there still is some difference. I am back to continuous lights for coins. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]1325955[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>Insects, however, need the action stopping feature of a flash. This is especially true when the insect is sitting on a flower/leaf that is blowing in the wind. One answer would be to pick the flower and bring it inside for a studio shot. I might do that for a sunflower but I am not bringing an Assassin Bug (juvenile Wheel Bug) inside.....period! I wish I could have done a focus stack to get more universal focus but things in nature move. Would I prefer a bit more 'natural' look to the lighting here? Certainly. I'm just glad I was able to record this Japanese Beetle being invited for lunch (and not join him on the menu).</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1325958[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 7745118, member: 19463"]I would encourage you to try the Focus bracketing on the R5 (R6 and RP also) but it does not work with flash and it requires a lens with auto focus so the 65 is out. At the moment I have only a dozen coins at home so I was limited on what to try but found a couple that gave reasonable results with the flash and more that just did not work since my flashes lack modelling lights and little angle differences can make a big difference. I have a long standing love/hate with ring lights. First, there are many very different beasts that call themselves 'ringlights'. The common and cheap ones tend to be many tiny LED's arranged in a ring and work well for coins that respond to the concept. Many so called rings are actually a circular frame with just two lights (right and left) not at all adjustable. The twin lights like the Canon MT-26EX-RT allow adjustment of angles and intensity which is fine but just two lights with no controls has never worked for me. I have an antique (2008) Sigma 'ring' flash like this. It makes well exposed and sharp photos with no personality. Some people look beautiful in their Passport photos; others not so much. I have coins that look good whatever I do when photographing. I should buy more coins like that. The image below illustrates why I do not like flash for coins. The four images (two of each side) were taken with the same 'ring' flash (actually two flashes mounted in a ring holder). The images differ because of a very small rotation of the ring that changed where the glares would fall. This could have been made softer with more diffusion but I prefer to be able to see the effect I am to get before I shoot. Here are a couple choices but there are thousands of other minute angle changes. I see great differences in these and want to be able to preview each angle change. 'Better' flashes may have modelling lights that allow preview of what to expect but my experience is that they do not position the modelling bulb in exactly the same place as the flash tube so there still is some difference. I am back to continuous lights for coins. [ATTACH=full]1325955[/ATTACH] Insects, however, need the action stopping feature of a flash. This is especially true when the insect is sitting on a flower/leaf that is blowing in the wind. One answer would be to pick the flower and bring it inside for a studio shot. I might do that for a sunflower but I am not bringing an Assassin Bug (juvenile Wheel Bug) inside.....period! I wish I could have done a focus stack to get more universal focus but things in nature move. Would I prefer a bit more 'natural' look to the lighting here? Certainly. I'm just glad I was able to record this Japanese Beetle being invited for lunch (and not join him on the menu). [ATTACH=full]1325958[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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