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<p>[QUOTE="kirispupis, post: 7742411, member: 118780"]Below are a few of my recent shots of a Lysimachos Tetradrachm and a Series 1 Karshapana from (supposedly) the time of Buddha.</p><p><br /></p><p>The setup isn't too complicated. I have a simple chemistry test tube holder with a Lego stand I built. I place black felt over everything but the stand for the background, then have a plate ($10 on Amazon) for the reflection. I use two wine bottles to hold the plate in place.</p><p><br /></p><p>For lighting, I have an MR-26EX attached to my camera (Canon R5). Depending on the coin, I sometimes change the balance between the heads.</p><p><br /></p><p>Settings are simple because the flash is doing the work - f/11 (typically the sharpest point for any lens), 1/250 (flash sync speed), and then an ISO to match the reflection of the coin - typically 200 to 800. Again, because I can rely on the flash to freeze the subject, the camera is hand held.</p><p><br /></p><p>You could argue that the Lysimachos tet should be brighter, though the coin is dark in those spots. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1325610[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1325611[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1325609[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>For my non-coin photography, see <a href="https://josephcalev.com/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://josephcalev.com/" rel="nofollow">here</a>.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="kirispupis, post: 7742411, member: 118780"]Below are a few of my recent shots of a Lysimachos Tetradrachm and a Series 1 Karshapana from (supposedly) the time of Buddha. The setup isn't too complicated. I have a simple chemistry test tube holder with a Lego stand I built. I place black felt over everything but the stand for the background, then have a plate ($10 on Amazon) for the reflection. I use two wine bottles to hold the plate in place. For lighting, I have an MR-26EX attached to my camera (Canon R5). Depending on the coin, I sometimes change the balance between the heads. Settings are simple because the flash is doing the work - f/11 (typically the sharpest point for any lens), 1/250 (flash sync speed), and then an ISO to match the reflection of the coin - typically 200 to 800. Again, because I can rely on the flash to freeze the subject, the camera is hand held. You could argue that the Lysimachos tet should be brighter, though the coin is dark in those spots. [ATTACH=full]1325610[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1325611[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1325609[/ATTACH] For my non-coin photography, see [URL='https://josephcalev.com/']here[/URL].[/QUOTE]
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