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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;rmpsrpms, post: 2663370, member: 31773&quot;]Yes, it would be a big problem if you were just working with the front face of the Vivitar bellows. Luckily, the lens does extend below this level and allows lighting to be placed below the bellows face and to the side of the lens or slightly in front of it.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Any droop will cause one side of the coin to be in focus while the other side is not. Cameras tend to droop more than bellows due to their shape and the width of the mounting areas. Some cameras are better than others in this respect, so it does depend on the camera and the composition of the body and any coatings on the tripod mounting surface. Have you ever calibrated the flatness of your system? It&#039;s a good idea to do this to avoid having to stop down the lens to achieve acceptable depth of field. I developed a technique using a mirror put in place of the coin, stopping lens down, then focusing on the lens image in the mirror. Give it a try, as I bet you will find your system with camera plus heavy lens is indeed drooping a bit and needs some shims.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Not sure where I stated I don&#039;t dedicate a camera to coins, but indeed I have several cameras that are only used for coin photography.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have made no exaggerations, nor do I need to &quot;sell&quot; the extension/bellows approach. The extension/bellows + enlarging/duplicating lens system has both pros and cons vs the dedicated macro lens system, and I&#039;ve stated them fairly so that Pat can make an informed decision.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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