Photo Pros - Which Camera Lens Do You Use?

Almost forgot to mention this, but you should also use the "timer" function on the phone to snap the photo... one less thing to make the phone shake when you're taking the picture.

 

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Some have a speech to shoot option also.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write this out. Also thanks everyone else who put in information. This is a lot of information to digest and I'm consuming it. That looks like an optimal set-up for me at the moment- price/improvement. I can choose to upgrade later as I desire.

The high end macro lenses look awesome and the photos you guys produce are phenomenal. Those are a little out of my comfort level pricewise at the moment. I'll just have to do my research and keep an eye out for clearance/going-out-of-business sales in that department. Maybe someday...

I haven't really explored a bellows system yet. One of my goals is being able to showcase varieties and produce photos of high enough quality to get opinions. I ran into serious problems once I started trying to get detailed photos of MMs with my current system. Would starting with the adapter/conversion set-up with a short-mid range plan to purchase a Nikon pb-6 bellows be a reasonable upgrade?

...and back to the researchings...

 

Photos taken with a Sony Cyber Shot point & shoot camera. No special lens, lighting used is a Dino-Lite Photo Box

 

I've never had to change my ISO. I've pretty much used ISO100 all the time. I set the aperture on the duplicating lens to 5.6 and what I see in Live View is what I get with the photo.

 

They are indeed. However, if he considers going the macro route, he must understand that his camera will not automatically be able to focus all Nikon mount autofocus lenses (Nikkor or third party). A D3300 is unable to focus screw-drive lenses and will need to buy a lens with an internal focusing motor if he wishes to have AF. Not that he should use it for coins, but is still something to keep in mind.

This, of course, isn't an issue with your camera and only impacts the less costly DX models (3xxx and 5xxx IIRC).

 

Auto-focus is one thing I'm trying to get away from. With my point and shoot camera I have taken about 500 pictures highly focused on a scratch in the plastic. .
I can show my progress so far- all with a Cannon A1000 IS. Maybe, the progress pics will lead to some solid pointers. Honestly, I've learned more from reading this thread and researching based off the ideas than I had in a week of research prior.
This was my first attempt after joining forum. I was using a crappy light (I think this was with a fluorescent desk lamp) without any stabilization:


Then I stabilized my camera with a tripod and stepped it up on the lighting. I pulled out a Hi Output Fluorescent grow light. This resulted in a very technicolor-like effect that didn't really represent how the coin looks in hand. So I abandoned that strategy.



Now, I've pulled out some extra tools (oscillating vice and alligator clips I mentioned earlier in thread). I started using a halogen desk lamp as a overall lighting and a handheld shop light for details. I think I need to go to one type of light source but this is what I have at the moment at zero cost.


So, I'm just at where the biggest limiting factor seems to be the crappy out-of-date point and shoot. I have a resource for usage of a low-med dslr so that's covered for the moment. It seems like the lens set-up is just as important, if not more-so, than the actual camera making it the best use of any monies invested for the moment. I'm open to any and all ideas.

 

I wasn't recommending AF whatsoever for coins, but only pointing out something I thought may be useful. Unfortunately, I've heard horror stories from a number of people who've purchased lenses for more affordable DX Nikons without realizing their AF limitations (not just macros but in general). The Nikon F mount has been around since 1959 and is often assumed all lenses will function, but is not the case.

As for lighting, yes... you're going to want to get more onto the coin, but also be sure you're using the same type/bulb. It seems lot of guys here use the Jansjo lights from IKEA and are very fond of them - @green18 may be able to share his experiences with them - and are also available from Amazon as well, but even cheap desk lamps will work just fine. When imaging coins, a lot comes down to both technique and individual expectations. A camera is a tool and as with most any tool, truly knowing how to use and get the most out of it (while accepting limitations) can be key. As an example: some of @Lehigh96 photos have been taken with an inexpensive point and shoot yet are very good because he knows what he's doing, so no matter what tool or tools you end up using, please do invest the time into learning the ins and outs as you'll be the better for it.

You're wise to have used a tripod to stabilize the camera when shooting. Another option I believe was already mentioned is a copy stand, is preferable to a tripod, and can get costly depending on make and model one chooses, but one can fairly easily be built at a fraction of the cost of money is an issue. A heavy and solid base, a few hardware store items, and an old tripod head is really all one needs in order to make a perfectly respectable copy stand.

The guys who've recommended the bellows setup do undeniably excellent work, and there's absolutely nothing wrong with following their advice/lead if it interests you. However, and this goes for macro lenses as well, you have to ask yourself what your needs and desires are, especially considering the fact you're using someone else's camera. Older crop sensor DSLRs can be had for very little money these days, so if you're going to invest in a dedicated setup, you may want to consider buying one of your own. Another option rarely discussed here is mirrorless cameras, and in particular the Sony NEX series. Especially if you wish to use the camera for more than just coins, they're worth looking into, but even if only for coins they're an excellent option due to the fact you can adapt an incredible variety of lenses to them without the possible need of correction glass adapters.

There are a number of very good to excellent "legacy" macro lenses that can sometimes be had for less to significantly less than modern equivalents, and may be another worthwhile option to consider. I can get more into this if you're interested.

Another option, and one likely to be the least costly of the bunch, is using simple diopters or what is often referred to as "closeup filters" (or sometimes "closeup lenses") that simply screw onto the lens filter treads. No, it's not a perfect solution or one that can replace a macro or other dedicated option, but would allow, as an example, the D3300's kit lens (I assume an 18-55DX?) to focus closer, and with some experimenting can result in perfectly acceptable images, again depending on expectations. Really, what it all boils down to is just that: expectations. There are near countless paths that can lead to respectable coin images, be it phones, P&S, DSLR, mirrorless, etc, etc, and what's best for you may not be the best choice for someone else.

 

Pat, I am not a pro at taking pics by any means. I use a Rebel T3i 600D. With a 18-55mm macro "capable" lens. I say capable because I shoot raw images. DSLR in auto does a lot for you, but when the camera is no longer doing the work, it takes a lot of practice to get the shot you are looking for.
Most of the time it is all in the lighting.
These were taken a day or two ago because of the pesky 69 S ddo threads that seem to Haunt CT.
This is the best close up images I have gotten thus far,
Yes, this is a proof.

 

@VirginiaMan-- This is what I do for the things my 'real' set -up won't handle (the medals that are too big). It covers the stabilizing the phone, hitting the release, and the lights. I have an iPhone 6S.

The tripod can be wrapped around something, or put the camera on anything to stabilize at the right height.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010J68OXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The shutter release is super easy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EUAS20U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a couple of these for lights (with a diffusing material over them)
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/


This came out of that set up:

 

@robec & @SuperDave too. These guys know how to spread the light.

 

Thank you, and is most appreciated.

 

For shooting varieties, you would just need to add a short focal length enlarging lens, or a microscope objective. You might consider starting with a 3x Unitron objective, which are decent and cheap. You also need an M42-RMS adapter to mount the objective. You would fine-focus the system using the helicoid. It's not ideal but it will work and adds no cost since it's already part of the system.

Here are a couple Unitron 3x Measuring objectives with long working distance:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICROSCOPE-...184732?hash=item3d319a0ddc:g:6OkAAOSw6btXS7x5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-PARTS-M...423644?hash=item3ad8718d9c:g:GYsAAOSwu4BVyKkE

And here is the adapter to mount the objective:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RafCamera-R...805570?hash=item2c9f37f502:g:lpkAAOSwj85YPGGD

 

I use a Nikon D7100 with a Nikon AF-S Micro Nikkor 105mm 1:2.8 ED VR

 

I use a Micro Nikkor 105mm manual , cost about 100, on a D40 body with a sturdy copy stand. works well for me.

 

The 105mm Micro-Nikkor is an excellent lens. The older f/4 manual version in AI mount is very sharp and can natively shoot from infinity to 1:2 magnification. If you add the PN-11 extension, it can go from 1:2 up to 1:1. The PN-11 has a tripod mount as well so gives a solid way to mount the lens.

 

Interesting. To what extent do our cameras & software version differ? Near as I can tell, my XS - in the absence of a clear aperture indicator from the lens - defaults to "fully closed," meaning the incoming light (to the camera) is severely limited.

This is what I look at when composing the shot (note the ISO setting):



This, when I run the ISO down to the actual shot setting:

 

Do you have a setting on your duplicating lens? My Rodenstock has a setting for aperture that you manually adjust from f4.5-f22. I've heard this lens called a duplicating or enlarging lens. If yours doesn't have the option of setting the aperture on the lens itself then I see your problem.

 

Yes, of course, I set the physical aperture at the lens, but without an electronic connection to the camera it has no idea what that setting is. I am using the software version contemporary with the Rebel XS, and it may be that later versions of that software note and compensate for the apparent underexposure.

 

It's true there is no electronic connection. Do you have your lens set wide open? If you go on the Canon's website there may be an updated version of your software. What version are you running?