Photo Pros - Which Camera Lens Do You Use?

Since I've run into a a wall with my current photography equipment, I've been negotiating with a family member for use of a DSLR. I have worked out a deal for intermittent use at no cost.

So, which lens is ideal for coin photography? What do you use? Do you think the basic lens will be adequate enough for the time being since the improvement from a standard digital will be 'good 'nuff'?

 

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My standard answer is to buy a M42 adapter, a M42 helicoid, a few extensions, and a cheap enlarger lens, rather than an expensive macro lens. The results will be just as good, maybe better, and you can go to higher magnification than 1:1 if you want. If you want more info, I can provide specific items to buy but need to know your camera make and model...Ray

 

I'm using a 200 mm AF Micro-Nikkor on my camera most of the time, 105 mm for larger items. If you have an APS-C sensor, however, I wouldn't choose a lens longer than 150 mm. The kit lens, probably a zoom, won't be as good as either Ray's solution or mine, especially if it zooms by itself when pointed down, but it can get you started. You'll need a support and lights as well.

 

Thank you. I will have access to a Nikkon D3300.
I'll be looking into upgrading lighting as well, but it's not quite as expensive of an investment. I have a jewelry vice, a dual-alligator clips thing-a-ma-jig and a tri-pod I've set-up- so that's pretty covered.
I just see a wide range of options ranging from ~$200-$2000. I think I can rule the super high end telescopic since that would be a little over-kill. However, I don't want to spend 2-4 hundred on a lens that I won't be happy with either.

 

+Heck, if I can get away with an adapter even better. Currently looking down that avenue.

 

I use a copy stand with a bellows system set up. My lens of choice for general coin photography is the Rodenstock APO-Rodagon D 75mm f/1.4 reproduction lens. It is an extremely sharp lens with great color and contrast. You can find them on eBay for between $250.00 and $300.00 fairly easily.

 

Here are the parts you would need, in the order they would attach to the camera:

Nikon - M42 adapter ($5)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M42-Lens-to...471453?hash=item25563a9b9d:g:vmQAAOxyMd1SFaQg

M42 Helicoid ($21)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-17mm-to-...336377?hash=item3f75cd6bb9:g:wXsAAOSw4CFYpiWo

M42 Extensions ($8, buy two sets for $16)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camrea-Macr...hash=item2ebd7be226:m:moTY3KHp04n76JH9rAuSNrA

M42-M39 adapter ($6 for two)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M39-39mm-to...212537?hash=item4d493cf179:g:HkAAAOSwHoFXsU2b

75mm Rodenstock Omegaron enlarging lens ($19 + $9 shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rodenstock-...276572?hash=item1c7d6b6d1c:g:fXcAAOSwax5Yqnw5

OR

75mm El-Omegar enlarging lens ($20 + $4 shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/El-Omegar-7...429301?hash=item1c7cf3afb5:g:fxMAAOSwx6pYom~t

Total cost of this system is ~$75 including shipping, and will allow you to shoot with your Nikon from full slab or large medal shots down to around 2:1 or maybe higher detail shots, plus everything in between.

It will be very difficult to discern the quality of shots published for the web at 600-1000 pixels in size using the above compared with the very best macro lenses out there.

Note that adjusting for different coin sizes may require changing or adding extension tubes, so it's a bit of a manual process. The helicoid gives some continuous adjustment but to go from Dimes to Dollars you will need to change tubes. Pretty soon you'll figure out which tubes are needed for which coin sizes and it's a quick process.

edited to add: the lens jtlee recommended could be used in place of the Omegaron or El-Omegar lenses. I'd personally recommend starting with a cheap lens to make sure you like the setup and how it works, then if you want to upgrade get the better lens later.

 

Nice shopping list. I toy around with the idea of putting together something like this for shooting varieties under high magnification, where I currently use a point and shoot through a stereoscope eyepiece. It works quite well, and the workflow of "study the coin through the scope for the best shot, then pick up the camera and shoot" is super efficient for my needs. I'll probably end up with a trinocular scope with a cheap, tetherable DSLR permanently mounted at some point.

 

You can buy eyepieces with threads to fit some point and shoots. Once you get the view you want, just remove one eyepiece and stick the camera eyepiece in its place, then snap the shot. Minimizes the fussing with alignment and such.

 

DX lens's are relatively cheap compared to FX Len's. Find a nice Macro.......

 

I got decent pics with my kit lens, but I bought a Canon 100mm non L since I enjoy coin photography and thought it was worth the investment.

Took this with the 100mm


Took this with my kit lens

The quality is most certainly worth it if you're looking to get serious.

I finally found a copystand that will be here tomorrow that I found on eBay for $150 shipped. I'm hoping it makes my pictures even better.

Good luck! There's lot of lenses to pick from and after many hours of YouTube videos I went with the 100mm. Tough choices.

 

The seller keyword spammed Manfrotto and Bogen. I hope what you get is decent.

 

I have that exact copy stand. It works fine, but I think I would like to get a more sturdy one. But for the price, it's hard to turn down.

 

For the price I can't beat it. I had a local guy have a real nice one but he wanted $550 and a 4 hour round trip drive. For now this one will work I hope.

 

Keep in mind, that shopping list also makes the stereoscope itself redundant - via Live View the camera itself becomes the 'scope and choosing to shoot is then a couple of mouse clicks. You view the coin on your monitor rather than through the eyepiece. Sensors are thermally protected, and there's no reason why one can't run them continuously for observation instead of just imaging. My older Rebel XS has turned Live View off on its' own a couple times after about 90 minutes of continuous operation (most of that idle since it was only left on because I forgot ), although I don't know if that's thermally-related or just an internal timer.

Caveats: With a duplicating lens sending no aperture information, one must raise the ISO setting for screen viewability and then reduce it for the shot, at least with my particular setup. I leave aperture and exposure where I'll want them to shoot, compose and focus at ISO1600 and then reduce to ISO100-200 for the shot. It only takes a couple of shots to learn what "look" on your screen translates to an appropriately-exposed shot for the purposes of choosing correct ISO. That's why I mention a "few mouse clicks" above instead of "one mouse click."

Additionally, varying magnification is a bit more complex than for a zooming 'scope (if that's what you employ) since one must vary bellows or extension length and refocus when changing magnification. That's where a bellows establishes itself as clearly superior to extensions. Duplicating lenses don't lend themselves to wide magnification ranges, although with anywhere from 10-24MP in hand depending on the camera, you won't need much optical magnification anyways. Not even a 4k monitor will display the entire coin at once on the screen....

 

The thing is, I prefer the view a stereoscope gives over a Live View image. It's sharper, there's no latency in an imaging chain to get it displayed, and it's a stereo image.

 

Hello all - "El-Cheap-O" here - Cheap-O question......What is the "cheapest" way to photograph slab coins? I have an iPhone. Thanks.....El-Cheap-O Here (cheap on everything EXCEPT my coin buys!)

 

Ola, el-cheap-o ;-)

What iPhone do you have?

In my novice opinion, if you find something to set your phone on (even a soda can; doesn't have to be fancy" to avoid blur and use a well-lit area, you can take pretty darned good photos with any decent smartphone, especially an iPhone.

 

Thanks, dougmeister .... Sounds like a bueno el-plan-o - Gracious amigo

 

He did mention in the description that it is sometimes called that, which is why he added it to the title.