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<p>[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 1424000, member: 15309"]Whenever I photograph a coin, I always start with two gooeseneck lamps positioned at 10 & 2 o'clock with the lights pointed straight down at the coin. I will usually place another coin underneath the object coin at 6 o'clock in order to slightly tilt the coin into the light source. Then I position the light so that the edge of the light comes as close to the edge of the coin without reflecting off the surface of the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/040909001.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I use a camera with macro mode and place the camera as far away from the coin as I can while still maintaining the ability to focus. I use the delay timer shudder release so that there is no vibration when I take the photo. After taking the photo, I look at the photo on the camera and decide if the photo is usable or not. It will be readily clear if this set up is not working. For toned proof coins and other highly reflective coins, I will often take both photos using direct lighting and photos using diffused lighting. Here is an example of a coin I imaged yesterday.</p><p><br /></p><p>Direct Lighting</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Lincoln%20Cents/LC1960GEMPF.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Diffused Lighting</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Lincoln%20Cents/LC1960GEMPF1.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The purpose of diffused lighting is to show the color while sacrificing luster in the process. If you look at the Lincoln above just with the direct lighting, you really wouldn't know that it had much color. But the diffused lighting proves without a doubt that there is color there. When it comes to diffused lighting, I usually use one light at 12 o'clock and let the light cover the entire surface of the coin. Turn down the exposure on your camera and voila, the color shows up. And there is no need to get fancy, my method is two simple household items, a paper towel and a rubber band.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/2009%20Blizzard%20Photos/051709.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The last factor in good coin photography is practice. Trial & error followed by practice, practice, practice. Photograph thousands of coins and you will get good at it. And I can prove it. Here is my photo of that DMPL Morgan when I first purchased it in 2007.</p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Morgan%20Dollars/MorganDollar1881-SNGCMS65Star562337.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>If you look closely, the color is off due to a white balance problem. It is fuzzy because I was not using a copy stand and taking the photo while holding the camera. And lastly, the camera is far too close to the coin and you can see the reflection of both the camera and my finger.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Lehigh96, post: 1424000, member: 15309"]Whenever I photograph a coin, I always start with two gooeseneck lamps positioned at 10 & 2 o'clock with the lights pointed straight down at the coin. I will usually place another coin underneath the object coin at 6 o'clock in order to slightly tilt the coin into the light source. Then I position the light so that the edge of the light comes as close to the edge of the coin without reflecting off the surface of the coin. [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/040909001.jpg[/IMG] I use a camera with macro mode and place the camera as far away from the coin as I can while still maintaining the ability to focus. I use the delay timer shudder release so that there is no vibration when I take the photo. After taking the photo, I look at the photo on the camera and decide if the photo is usable or not. It will be readily clear if this set up is not working. For toned proof coins and other highly reflective coins, I will often take both photos using direct lighting and photos using diffused lighting. Here is an example of a coin I imaged yesterday. Direct Lighting [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Lincoln%20Cents/LC1960GEMPF.jpg[/IMG] Diffused Lighting [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Lincoln%20Cents/LC1960GEMPF1.jpg[/IMG] The purpose of diffused lighting is to show the color while sacrificing luster in the process. If you look at the Lincoln above just with the direct lighting, you really wouldn't know that it had much color. But the diffused lighting proves without a doubt that there is color there. When it comes to diffused lighting, I usually use one light at 12 o'clock and let the light cover the entire surface of the coin. Turn down the exposure on your camera and voila, the color shows up. And there is no need to get fancy, my method is two simple household items, a paper towel and a rubber band. [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/2009%20Blizzard%20Photos/051709.jpg[/IMG] The last factor in good coin photography is practice. Trial & error followed by practice, practice, practice. Photograph thousands of coins and you will get good at it. And I can prove it. Here is my photo of that DMPL Morgan when I first purchased it in 2007. [IMG]http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Morgan%20Dollars/MorganDollar1881-SNGCMS65Star562337.jpg[/IMG] If you look closely, the color is off due to a white balance problem. It is fuzzy because I was not using a copy stand and taking the photo while holding the camera. And lastly, the camera is far too close to the coin and you can see the reflection of both the camera and my finger.[/QUOTE]
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