Photo Critique: Toned Roosie and Jefferson

Nice coins Shrek!

 

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nice, after i get done learning how to get my silver and copper coins photographed right, i am moving onto toned coins. one problem i got is... i only got one! and it aint that great. its just a rainbow toned 1981 lincoln and the toning only covers about a quarter of the coin.

they look good to me, but i can't be much of a help to make them better...

 

I am one of those guys who learned how to take photos of coins through trial and error. I have no real knowledge of photography. The other day I was reading a thread over on the CU forum and was left thinking that they were speaking in a completely different language. The whole conversation was over my head. I like my photographs but don't really consider myself in a position to really give a whole lot of advice about photography methods in general. I feel more comfortable just telling others what works for me.

Regarding you photos, I think they are a very good start. I don't think there is too much light on the Jefferson nickel but I am a little concerned about the color. Whether the coin is AT or NT is not really an issue because even if it is NT, it would most likely be deemed not market acceptable by the TPG's in the current environment.

In my experience, AT coins will often present a whole new set of problems for a photographer. Naturally iridescent toned coins will usually show color shifting toning. Artificial toned coins will appear iridescent but in a way that the color will almost completely disappear at certain angles. It is hard to describe in words, tough to capture in photos, but simple to discern in hand. These photos should illustrate what I am talking about. They are of the same coin taken at different angles.





There is little doubt in my mind that this Jefferson is AT. Did your coin present a problem like this when you photographed it? If so, it is probably AT. BTW, I took the first set of photos in February 2009 and the second set tonight. Notice the difference in the quality of my photos over the last year and a half.

The proof Roosevelt has a different problem. Direct lighting on proof coins causes hot spots. This is why I prefer diffused lighting for proof coins. When using diffused lighting, you typically will only need one light since you are shining the diffused light directly at the coin. With direct lighting, you must angle the lights so they don't overlap the coin in order to eliminate glare. Try the diffused lighting technique and see what happens.

 

some of lehighs photography threads were posted in my thread.

they are very helpful and i learned a lot from them. they were not written in camera lingo, so i was able to understand everything. the one on photoshop was very helpful to me because, before i was basically just guessing and playing with my photos. i can't say my photos are great yet(that will come with practice) but they are at least 100 times better!

thanks lehigh