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<p>[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1723646, member: 26030"]Hey Gbroke, </p><p><br /></p><p>I have a lot of experience getting TrueViews and also having coins shot by a top notch private photographer (robec). My experience is on raw coins (no slab) is that robec can often beat the TrueView -- however keep in mind that almost all TrueViews are shot in about 10 to 30 seconds ... while robec would often take 20 minutes to an hour or more and take many more shots at many more angles. Most TrueViews, of colorfully toned coins, are shot in basically one way -- to max out the color -- and this often sacrifices the luster on unc coins and the mirror/gloss on proof coins. I personally like photos more when a photo captures at least some of the luster and/or mirror and/or gloss -- and TrueViews generally don't (unless you ask specifically for that). </p><p><br /></p><p>In any case, I think this "time spent" difference is why robec can often beat the TrueView. The TrueView photographer shoots hundreds to sometimes thousands of coins a day ... while robec generally can shoot 3 or maybe 4 on his best days -- so there is a big time spent difference. That being said I still LOVE the way TrueView photos look in almost every case. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now if you are talking about photographing a coin already behind plastic (slabbed) -- there is no substitute for a PCGS crackout, an out of the slab TrueView photos, and a reholder at the same grade. Private photographers will always be dealing with slab glare when shooting through plastic and will typically have impairment, especially when trying to max out the color. </p><p><br /></p><p>There is one other little trick I wanted to share about TrueView photos. If you post the internet optimized "Large" sized TrueView photos (1100 x 550 pixels) directly from their database, they will typically look a bit "soft" in the focus department. This is because PCGS uses a very aggressive lossy compression algorithm to reduce the file size of the Large images. You can "make" your own (better) version of that sized image by starting with their MAX sized image 5757 pixels in width, then cutting out the coins using a circular selection tool, then resizing to fit on the Large sized template, then saving using a HIGHER QUALITY compression setting (say 90% quality ... i.e. 10% compression). This little trick makes a huge difference in how sharp the coins look at the web optimized size of 1100 pixels wide.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here is a nice example of how Robec having more time to shoot allows him to capture more "looks" of a colorfully toned coin. </p><p>This row of 6 photos below were shot at six different lighting angles.</p><p>Note how GLOSSY and MIRRORED shot #1 looks! And how shot #6 captures some color and some glossy mirror. While shot #2 basically maxes out the color and minimizes the glossy mirror. </p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://mindstar.com/cointalk_photos/1991s_6xComposite.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Now compare that with the TrueView photo which was shot in a few seconds and basically maxed out the color -- so it looks more like Robec's shot #2 above. </p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://mindstar.com/cointalk_photos/27588572_Large.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The upshot is most toned coins have a whole slew of various looks and some might appeal to you more than others. It makes perfect sense that if you are shooting your own coin and have hours to spend with it, you will find that one shot that "sings" to you personally. While the PCGS TrueView photographer doesnt have that luxury and needs to crank these through (can you imagine having a backlog of 1000+ coins that you need to photograph in one day? wow) ... so they are shot simply to max out the color (which is what most (but not all) colorfully toned coin collectors like).[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1723646, member: 26030"]Hey Gbroke, I have a lot of experience getting TrueViews and also having coins shot by a top notch private photographer (robec). My experience is on raw coins (no slab) is that robec can often beat the TrueView -- however keep in mind that almost all TrueViews are shot in about 10 to 30 seconds ... while robec would often take 20 minutes to an hour or more and take many more shots at many more angles. Most TrueViews, of colorfully toned coins, are shot in basically one way -- to max out the color -- and this often sacrifices the luster on unc coins and the mirror/gloss on proof coins. I personally like photos more when a photo captures at least some of the luster and/or mirror and/or gloss -- and TrueViews generally don't (unless you ask specifically for that). In any case, I think this "time spent" difference is why robec can often beat the TrueView. The TrueView photographer shoots hundreds to sometimes thousands of coins a day ... while robec generally can shoot 3 or maybe 4 on his best days -- so there is a big time spent difference. That being said I still LOVE the way TrueView photos look in almost every case. Now if you are talking about photographing a coin already behind plastic (slabbed) -- there is no substitute for a PCGS crackout, an out of the slab TrueView photos, and a reholder at the same grade. Private photographers will always be dealing with slab glare when shooting through plastic and will typically have impairment, especially when trying to max out the color. There is one other little trick I wanted to share about TrueView photos. If you post the internet optimized "Large" sized TrueView photos (1100 x 550 pixels) directly from their database, they will typically look a bit "soft" in the focus department. This is because PCGS uses a very aggressive lossy compression algorithm to reduce the file size of the Large images. You can "make" your own (better) version of that sized image by starting with their MAX sized image 5757 pixels in width, then cutting out the coins using a circular selection tool, then resizing to fit on the Large sized template, then saving using a HIGHER QUALITY compression setting (say 90% quality ... i.e. 10% compression). This little trick makes a huge difference in how sharp the coins look at the web optimized size of 1100 pixels wide. Here is a nice example of how Robec having more time to shoot allows him to capture more "looks" of a colorfully toned coin. This row of 6 photos below were shot at six different lighting angles. Note how GLOSSY and MIRRORED shot #1 looks! And how shot #6 captures some color and some glossy mirror. While shot #2 basically maxes out the color and minimizes the glossy mirror. [IMG]https://mindstar.com/cointalk_photos/1991s_6xComposite.jpg[/IMG] Now compare that with the TrueView photo which was shot in a few seconds and basically maxed out the color -- so it looks more like Robec's shot #2 above. [IMG]https://mindstar.com/cointalk_photos/27588572_Large.jpg[/IMG] The upshot is most toned coins have a whole slew of various looks and some might appeal to you more than others. It makes perfect sense that if you are shooting your own coin and have hours to spend with it, you will find that one shot that "sings" to you personally. While the PCGS TrueView photographer doesnt have that luxury and needs to crank these through (can you imagine having a backlog of 1000+ coins that you need to photograph in one day? wow) ... so they are shot simply to max out the color (which is what most (but not all) colorfully toned coin collectors like).[/QUOTE]
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