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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;GoldCoinLover, post: 1557710, member: 4336&quot;]Lots of good books on counterfeit detection on hold. I was a specialist (studied this) for several years . Bill Fivazv has a nice pocket guide on fakes and spotting. I took a 3 day, ANA course on counterfeit detection , conservation , and grading. Each class took on each subject 8 hours. We looked, took notes, looked at tons of graded coins and tested our grading skills (I&#039;m horrible on Grading! I know it&#039;s bad. I&#039;m good or was pretty good at detecting fake and altered coinage to increase value to say, a semi or key coin. Some were quite deceptive . ) I was able to spot most all counterfeits, (did not as well on alterations) I used a 15-20x loupe. Luckily I knew how to use it, which was vitally important. The larger , for me, the coin generally are easier to detect. They are simply bigger with more place for tool marks, bad reeding (uneven/missing/deformed and poorly struck (weak strike, like for edge lettering) weak strike, often certain coins just &quot;don&#039;t look right&quot;, this is generally a gut feeling and may want to look at thr coin for other signs. Repeating depressions are contact marks on genuine coins struck usually in higher quality transfer dies. Often they are shallow and often not uniform in shape, rough edges, with luster inside as the metal moved into the depression. They are called repeating because each coin struck coin struck on the fake die will make the same marks in the sme spot . If you find 2 coins like this, fake, with same diagnosis material , you may possible call then fake, I,e struck from the same die. It&#039;s important to note that 1, even 2, signs of a coin being means it may possibly be, but may not. Without the proper diagnosis database with counterfeits (I&#039;m sure pcgs has one, probably of past fakes made by that die) you need at least 3 or 4 or 5 diagnosis &quot;criteria&quot; to deem it even possibly. Sometimes it&#039;s hard to tell . Kevin[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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