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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Speedy, post: 459769, member: 705&quot;]What I would do is make an offer for the whole lot. The way I would go around that is to make sure that none of the coins are either low grade like AG, or higher MS. Then fine the melt price and work around that.</p><p><br /></p><p>EX:</p><p><br /></p><p>For each silver dime I&#039;ll pay $1 each. The 1921-D I&#039;ll pay $20...or whatever. </p><p>For each silver quarter I&#039;ll pay $2.25 each</p><p>For each silver half I&#039;ll pay $3.00 each</p><p>For each silver dollar I&#039;ll pay $7.50.</p><p><br /></p><p>I haven&#039;t checked silver today so this could be high or low---</p><p>On the better dates such as the 21 Peace check the coins grade and make sure it hasn&#039;t been cleaned. Then find out what you think it would be worth, and then lower that to your offer price. Try to get it low enough so that if you have to flip it to a dealer you can break even or come out ahead.</p><p>A few years ago when 1938-D half dollars were selling for around $30 I offered $15 for one...I was buying a large lot of coins and after selling some I got it for close to $2.50. The guy took the offer and after having the coin for awhile I decided to get it graded. Came back F!</p><p><br /></p><p>On the stuff like the Ike dollars---Cents and Jefferson Nickels...as long as they aren&#039;t War Nickels or Wheat cents I would offer face. </p><p><br /></p><p>Speedy[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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