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<p>[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 164859, member: 66"]Like most people I would usually rather have a problem free coin and I would rather have the AG than a problem VG. (Now if there is more "meat" on the coin then my opinion may change. If you make that a mild problem Fine then I may go for the sharper piece.) I can't afford the nicer pieces so most of my cent are low grade and many of them are problem coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>As far as what they are worth, it depends on whether or not you are doing varieties or just looking for a type piece. For a type piece track the auctions and you can probably get a fair handle on what a common type piece will bring. Varieties are a totally different animal. There are only a couple of price guides for varieties, and usually it seems that the guides don't really matter because when the next copper auction comes around you can usually bid double what the guide says and still lose 50 to 75 percent of the lots. Trying to use typical auction results when you are dealing with anything other than the most common varieties is probably pretty much worthless. When I got into the early date cents problem free good draped bust cents listed for $30 and could often be purchased for $20. AG or problem coins could be had for $10. I make more now than I did back then, but there is no way I could afford to build the collection I have now at todays prices. And my collection only averages G-4.</p><p><br /></p><p>Leadfoot, I'm not surprised you paid out the wahzoo for those two coins. The 1810 is a common variety, but being an overdate it tends to be unusually popular. But the real reason is that it has pretty nice surfaces for a classic head, much better than normally seen. Most people look at the regular price guides for that series would think thatthey could et a nice problem free coin for a reasonable amount of money. But then when they actually start looking for one they find that the problem free nice surface coins are few and far between and most of them are in strong hands. The coins that change hands at the price guide levels are NOT problem free and are frequently overgraded. When a true problem free piece comes on the market they will usually bring multiples of the guide prices.</p><p><br /></p><p>The 1798 on the other hand is a different animal. Nice 1798's can be found, but not for the reverse of 1796 varieties. There are only three reverse of 96 varieties and they all tend to come on dark rough planchets. Two of them (S-156 and S178) are VERY rare. This one, the S-155, is scarce as a variety and also usually comes on bad planchets and in low grades. Yours is exceptionable. If it doesn't make the condition census it is definitely flirting with the lower end of it. You coin is just a little less condition wise than the one in the Jack Robinson sale and it was rated as the fourth finest known. I can understand why the price was high.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Conder101, post: 164859, member: 66"]Like most people I would usually rather have a problem free coin and I would rather have the AG than a problem VG. (Now if there is more "meat" on the coin then my opinion may change. If you make that a mild problem Fine then I may go for the sharper piece.) I can't afford the nicer pieces so most of my cent are low grade and many of them are problem coins. As far as what they are worth, it depends on whether or not you are doing varieties or just looking for a type piece. For a type piece track the auctions and you can probably get a fair handle on what a common type piece will bring. Varieties are a totally different animal. There are only a couple of price guides for varieties, and usually it seems that the guides don't really matter because when the next copper auction comes around you can usually bid double what the guide says and still lose 50 to 75 percent of the lots. Trying to use typical auction results when you are dealing with anything other than the most common varieties is probably pretty much worthless. When I got into the early date cents problem free good draped bust cents listed for $30 and could often be purchased for $20. AG or problem coins could be had for $10. I make more now than I did back then, but there is no way I could afford to build the collection I have now at todays prices. And my collection only averages G-4. Leadfoot, I'm not surprised you paid out the wahzoo for those two coins. The 1810 is a common variety, but being an overdate it tends to be unusually popular. But the real reason is that it has pretty nice surfaces for a classic head, much better than normally seen. Most people look at the regular price guides for that series would think thatthey could et a nice problem free coin for a reasonable amount of money. But then when they actually start looking for one they find that the problem free nice surface coins are few and far between and most of them are in strong hands. The coins that change hands at the price guide levels are NOT problem free and are frequently overgraded. When a true problem free piece comes on the market they will usually bring multiples of the guide prices. The 1798 on the other hand is a different animal. Nice 1798's can be found, but not for the reverse of 1796 varieties. There are only three reverse of 96 varieties and they all tend to come on dark rough planchets. Two of them (S-156 and S178) are VERY rare. This one, the S-155, is scarce as a variety and also usually comes on bad planchets and in low grades. Yours is exceptionable. If it doesn't make the condition census it is definitely flirting with the lower end of it. You coin is just a little less condition wise than the one in the Jack Robinson sale and it was rated as the fourth finest known. I can understand why the price was high.[/QUOTE]
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