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<p>[QUOTE="illini420, post: 715375, member: 19423"]Well the silver bar is cool I guess if you're wanting to invest in silver, but it just does nothing to help you build a cool coin collection, that's all I meant.</p><p> </p><p>If you really wanted to invest in silver, I think it's much more fun to maybe buy $50-$100 face value of 90% junk silver. You can get rolls of Walking Liberty Halves, Franklin Halves, Mercury Dimes and sometimes even Barber coins (but those usually go for more than spot) and while you have them primarily as a silver investment, you can still search through them as coins and find pieces that are worth more than silver melt value, sometimes substantially more depending on how well the group has been searched over in the past.</p><p> </p><p>For the 3-coin set, I'd just see what the greysheet bid/ask is on it right now as that should be decent guidance. Then see what the completed auctions for the set on eBay is and whether it seems reasonable. </p><p> </p><p>Just wondering why you think you'd need the coins to be certified. If you were looking to post your set on one of the online set registries someday, then maybe you should go certified. But for these coins, there's a pretty big market for them uncertified too. 99% of the uncertified coins will be a 69 or 70 grade anyways so certification is less important. With your 1995-W on the other hand, certification was very important to ensure against counterfeits and to ensure the grade because there is a substantial price difference between a Proof 69 vs. a Proof 67 or so. With this three coin 20th anniversary set I don't think the price difference between the grades are significant enough to justify the grading fees. </p><p> </p><p>All that said, if you like slabbed coins better because you want them to match your others, then just buy them already slabbed, doesn't make sense to pay the fees yourself when you can pretty much buy them already slabbed at around the same cost that an uncertified coin would be.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="illini420, post: 715375, member: 19423"]Well the silver bar is cool I guess if you're wanting to invest in silver, but it just does nothing to help you build a cool coin collection, that's all I meant. If you really wanted to invest in silver, I think it's much more fun to maybe buy $50-$100 face value of 90% junk silver. You can get rolls of Walking Liberty Halves, Franklin Halves, Mercury Dimes and sometimes even Barber coins (but those usually go for more than spot) and while you have them primarily as a silver investment, you can still search through them as coins and find pieces that are worth more than silver melt value, sometimes substantially more depending on how well the group has been searched over in the past. For the 3-coin set, I'd just see what the greysheet bid/ask is on it right now as that should be decent guidance. Then see what the completed auctions for the set on eBay is and whether it seems reasonable. Just wondering why you think you'd need the coins to be certified. If you were looking to post your set on one of the online set registries someday, then maybe you should go certified. But for these coins, there's a pretty big market for them uncertified too. 99% of the uncertified coins will be a 69 or 70 grade anyways so certification is less important. With your 1995-W on the other hand, certification was very important to ensure against counterfeits and to ensure the grade because there is a substantial price difference between a Proof 69 vs. a Proof 67 or so. With this three coin 20th anniversary set I don't think the price difference between the grades are significant enough to justify the grading fees. All that said, if you like slabbed coins better because you want them to match your others, then just buy them already slabbed, doesn't make sense to pay the fees yourself when you can pretty much buy them already slabbed at around the same cost that an uncertified coin would be.[/QUOTE]
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