Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;LA_Geezer, post: 2900747, member: 89393&quot;]I guess anyone who knows at least a little about bidding on coins knows that the best thing to do is to use a Sniper, set up your top bid then watch what happens. </p><p><br /></p><p>I have to chuckle a little about [USER=90419]@Gregg[/USER] &#039;s example of the Peace Dollar. I have several &#039;22-Ds, all of them at least as nice as that one, and the last two of mine won using my sniper for &lt; $20 each... one even included shipping. My point is that most shill bidding that might be going on is eliminated because there&#039;s no point in turning away potential bidders who think twice about an item with a bid already approaching his imagined high. Existing bids call attention to an item that might be overlooked, otherwise, and that will also lessen your own chances of getting something at a bargain price.</p><p><br /></p><p>I always go first to the &lt;Newly Listed&gt; format for the coin I might be looking for. Then I eliminate the &lt;Buy It Now&gt; items and start there. Any coins that have been up for more than 24 hours but have not received a bid are either overpriced for a starting bid or not meet standards for condition. Selecting the best few for my watch list is next, then I go to the &lt;Buy It Now&gt; items and eliminate those above the price I&#039;m willing to pay.</p><p><br /></p><p>I win about 25% of the auctions I bid on, and that tells me that there are others who operate in a similar fashion. Sometimes I get surprised when my sniper tells me that the existing bid was already higher than my snipe. I remember an instance where I set the snipe at $150 on a nice 1872 IHC that sold for more than $400. I don&#039;t always get them right.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

Your name or email address:

Do you already have an account?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Stay logged in