One of my many questions

Not the best pic... sorry

 

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I can't tell from that photo. I'd need a better close-up. You'd be more likely to see them with a loupe.

Chris

 

I'm using a loupe....just getting a good pic is a pain in my cinnamon buns

 

Here's my cud. Looks a little like yours.

 

Maybe

Remember a cud is always on the rim , it will extend in as far as the die end is broken . So technically yours is not a cud . See the pic in post #15 . Yours is called a die chip if it is caused by a chipped die .

 

Damn...yes...sorry! Die chip....I knew that! Here's my cud:

 

Super nice cud , with weak spot opposite .

 

Yes, thanks!

 

Unfortunately, to take good, clear close-ups, you need a microscopic lens. I use a conventional stereomicroscope, but there are other less expensive methods.

Chris

 

http://www.carson.com/microscopes/digital-microscopes/1476-

About $45.00

 

Of course it wouldn't move! You may be surprise at all the characteristics & shapes & appearances corrosion can create on a coin of any metal. Trust me on that.

 

Chris is right, Stereo scope for the best pics. However lighting is the most important. The image is sharp but the lighting on the 7 is glaring.

 

So, you want me to believe that it corroded under the copper and pushed the copper layer up to the level even with the top of the number? No, I don't trust you on that!

Chris

 

Yeah, it's a halogen light with a dimmer, and I wanted to pick up the toning which faded when I dimmed the light.

Chris

 

Money. Org there is a lot to learn tons of time

 

Actually, your/mine opinion from a photo + $6.00 will by a cup of coffee at Starbucks

IMO the 1983 is typical corrosion of the underlying Zinc.
IMO the 1994 is probably a die chip.

Tungsten is good for color. Now a suggestion...When I use halogen light pipes I crank up the brightness and soften the light with opaque glass or film of various thickness. That takes the glare off.

 

Yep, been there - seen it before. Actually, IMO FP (from photo...is this ever used?) the extra metal is ABOVE the surface of the numeral.

A friend and I like to (AFAILT) make up CA (crazy abbreviations) for things, Then throw in a bit of nonsense (PKRRU).

 

The American Numismatics association diploma course is excellent and truly exceptional. It bring a comprehensive knowledge of the major and minor knowledge needed in the field of Numismatics and collecting coins in general... Might I suggest if you do take it , study hard alot of factors to memorize. The key areas to focus on is detecting counterfeit coins and error's

 

Hahahahaha very nice

 

I will definitely look into this! Thank you for the info hun!