offset printed face on a 2006 $1

I would keep both of them, the 2009s don't have a large amount printed (yet) and you don't see many 85s nowadays in circulation. I'm new to notes though also

 

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Thanks, the papermoney info site is the one I was referring to.

 

How accurate do you think this is?

http://www.coinsite.com/html/uspapermoneyprices(sm).asp

 

It doesn't look as though it has been updated in a while.

 

I noticed that as well, hence my curiosity. I want to say it's terribly undervalued just based on my ebay observations.

 

You can always get a pretty good idea what people are willing to pay for notes off of ebay. I surf ebay all the time, just to see what things are going for. I bid every now and then too.lol

 

Very, reads like a pattern as well. Anyone know of a better online price resource?

 

Sir Zach:

Years ago I started collecting offsets(actually still do) and posted one here for you to see and understand what an offset really is.
I am sure there are several people here that can explain what happened to your note as I have been away for sometime.
So thus I am making a suggestion that an alignment in the roller assembly is responsibile for the tight margin at the top of the note.

One of my Offsets for you to see. If you notice the lower left corner is missing so it is considered a partial and not a full offset, however, it is a very dark one!

 

Good to know, as I said I am interested in learning more so thanks. The numismatic resources section on cointalk is kinda thin in the areas I'm still curious about, so if you have any more jewels or links I'd appreciate them.
Thanks again.

 

I almost forgot to mention, that is one beautiful note sir.

 

Kind of cool to know that back in the 70's someone new to keep that note in perfect condition. I'm betting it's probably a teller find, or maybe a strap find?
Nice :hail: !!! PCGS should call it a 90% instead of going with an all or partial listing?
I actually picked up a Full Back to Face offset '85 $10 E/5 (PCGS VF-35) last week. One thing I can tell you; They don't come cheap!

Here's the listing photo...

 

Ron:

That is a wonderful note to add to your collection. There is soemthing about offset's that strikes me in a funny way....I assume the same for you? To answer your question on the listing of full or partial, well I am not sure the reasoning behind that. Perhaps someone close to a TPG co can better answer it for us?
Thanks for sharing that offset, it's a really nice example.

 

Nice offset Ron. I have a beauty as well, but not a $10. Here's mine from back in June of this year:
06-16-2011 09:25 PM scan0055.jpg
(3 of 3)

 

Hey guys since there is considerable interest, and the all to often misidentified offset I will try to give the skinny on what offset is.
To put it simply offset is the die clash of the paper world. It's what happens when a sheet fails to feed into the press for any number of reasons and causes the ink from the plates to be transferred to the opposing roller. When a sheet is fed into the press it gets the normal pressing on one side and a reverse image on the opposite side from the feed roller. In the case of a back to face, a normal pressing is done on the first or back printing the reverse is printed on the front. 72 hours later the 2nd printing is done on the front on top of the early mistake. Hence the term offset. Typically the ink from the feed roller gets used up after about 10 sheets, and gets weaker and weaker as each sheet gets feed in the press.
A partial is when a fold over, tear, or jam that only causes the exposed area of the plate to be applied to the roller.
So on a back to front the regular printing is printed on top of the error, and on a front to back the error is printed on top of the regular printing.
Let me know if any of this makes any since, cause I'm tring to type all of this on a tablet away from my computer.

 

Almost forgot, back in the day when they used to wet the sheets prior to entering the press, a transfer can occur when someone forgets to put a spacer sheet between the freshly printed stacks of currency.
I forget when they last used the wet process, but it was a long time ago. Everything today is done using the dry process cause the inks we use penatrate much more efficiency.

BTW: Yes Rickie I think I got bitten by the error bug, and the offset is by far the best looking and obvious even to non collectors.

 

I know I've been bitten by the error bug. In the past year I've increased from 0 errors to over 10, all of which are graded and nothing below the offset. I think that this is my new collecting niche and I'm happy about that fact!

 

I hear that Doc! BTW: nice offset you posted.

YES - YES - YES stick to graded offset errors! It would be to easy to make a fake one with a basic ink-jet printer, and someone with talent could fool yours or my numismatic dealer. Considering these can go from $50 to well over $1000, there is motive for bad guys to invest resources!

 

Definitely only go for the graded errors. I happened to find one in circulation and sold it to my local dealer only to find out it had been chemically treated. I felt bad, but since then have learned a lot more about errors and believe that everyone should stick to the graded ones most of the time.

 

Here's a better photo since it showed up today! I've got people on the gun forum I haunt and moderate if you can believe that, trying to figure out how it's made LOL
To give you an idea on pricing, I let one go today (I have to eat you know) that was a full back to face circulated slabbed $1 (80's I believe) for $99 bucks.

Great now I have to buy slab pages to fit my 3 ring currency binders.



One more thing, I bought a most excellent book called "United States Paper Money Errors" 3rd Edition by. Frederick J. Bart.
I got the kindle version for 15 or so bucks and I think Nook carries it for roughly the same cost. It's worth a look-see if you want to go beyond the meager info in the back of most regular currency history or red books! The author goes way beyond the call of duty explaining how these errors are created and gives you an idea of pricing! Since most errors are unique, it's good to have a baseline so you can plan your auction snip attack on your foe!

 

That's a nice book. I've looked through it a few times at my local coin shop.