Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Larry Moran, post: 839340, member: 4580&quot;]<b>Response to Doug&#039;s nice post&nbsp; : )</b></p><p><br /></p><p>Your setup is interesting, Doug, and quite effective.&nbsp; I took a good look at most of your images.&nbsp; : )</p><p><br /></p><p>In general, I liked the combination of lighting, but there are certainly some images of each type which appear to be best for certain coins.&nbsp; As most numismatographers agree, there is no one setup that is best for all coins.&nbsp; I believe your display proves that.&nbsp; : )</p><p><br /></p><p>I think your 400 ISO setting is good, though I use 200 normally.&nbsp; In general, I believe that showing three images of a coin is perhaps the best way, since we both know that few single photos capture all that is to be observed and enjoyed about a nice collectible coin.&nbsp; I suppose video might be best to show the changing appearance of a coin as it is moved in the light and observed at various angles, and even at various levels of zoom/magnification.</p><p><br /></p><p><u>I have a sort of ring light.</u>&nbsp; It was a reading magnifier and unused, so my mother-in-law let me have it, to do with as I pleased.&nbsp; I brought it home and looked at a few coins with the magnifying glass, then I removed the glass and took some photos using the ring light.&nbsp; The arc of the 3/16&quot; fluorescent tube is only about 280º, not a full 360º.&nbsp; <i>I wonder if your ring light has a small bulb like mine, or something heftier and brighter.</i></p><p><br /></p><p><u>I also have a Nikon Creative Lighting System</u> which I use on occasion, not often.&nbsp; There are adapters that fit various lens sizes and allow mounting a ring with four SB200 speedlights.&nbsp; Each speedlight also has its own little stand if I wish to place one or more speedlights remotely from the ring.&nbsp; Slaves are triggered by the on-camera flash, so I generally block the triggering light from reaching the coin.&nbsp; I block it with my hand, but enough light is allowed to reach the sensors on the slave units.</p><p><br /></p><p>In spite of myriad bulbs and reflectors, cards, track lighting, and other miscellaneous gear, I generally use one or two Ott-Lites.&nbsp; I was a yachtsman, and developed a mind for jury-rigging equipment to make it work for various purposes.&nbsp; That ability shows itself handy time and again in my numismatography, and I don&#039;t look for one best way to photograph hundreds of coins.&nbsp; Each coin gets individual treatment, though many respond to similar treatment.</p><p><br /></p><p>In my Creative Lighting System case was included one(1) SW-12 diffuser (Part No.&nbsp; NK4907.)&nbsp; I ordered three more for about $12 each.&nbsp; Now I have four identical 5.75&quot; x 8&quot; diffuser panels and I often use them with other kinds of lighting, including my Ott-Lites.&nbsp; I recommend them and it doesn&#039;t matter whether you use a Nikon camera or not.&nbsp; ; )</p><p><br /></p><p>I also sometimes use an axial lighting setup of my own design which works really well for toned coins.&nbsp; I use it on the leaf of my desk or in the top or second drawer.&nbsp; It stows easily in a drawer in a few seconds, though setup requires a couple of minutes.</p><p><br /></p><p>I suppose the most&nbsp; important tip I could doffer would be this... View the effects of changes in lighting through the lens as you vary the lighting.&nbsp; There is no other way to see what the camera will see, in advance.&nbsp; Watching with one&#039;s head off to the side of the camera will never reveal the subtle nuances produced by changes in lighting angle and intensity.&nbsp; Viewing through the lens reveals a sort of a movie, and its my job to select the best frame from that &#039;movie.&#039;[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

Your name or email address:

Do you already have an account?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Stay logged in