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<p>[QUOTE="Andrew McCabe, post: 3534701, member: 90666"]Yes I agree the style of the fake Lanz Murcus is absolutely correct because as is invariably the case with high end fakes it is derived from a genuine coin with known dies. The fabric and supposed strike seem entirely wrong to me. I mentioned a plastic look to it. The relief is wrong in the manner that the edges of the devices of a plastic toy coin are raised from the surfaces. It is a fake made using a copy of a real coin as its basis and then improved and changed in such a way as to leave an unnatural effect that would not have been produced by the ancient dies being struck with the normal strike effects and deficiencies seen on the genuine coins of Murcus. The surfaces are also not typical. Overall the coin looks entirely wrong as compared to other genuine Murcus types.</p><p><br /></p><p>The Octavian / Mark Antony is in evidently the wrong style. The Caesar elephant - I know what things are wrong with it but don't want to discuss all here as some are design related matters that a forger might address for his version 2. Much of the problems relate to the fabric and strike which are less easily faked.</p><p><br /></p><p>A competent numismatic expert should have sensed something wrong with these three coins, or at least that they were odd as compared with the norms, without necessarily being able to say exactly why, but sufficiently so as to refuse their consignment.</p><p><br /></p><p>As with all discussions on fakes, whatever I write will not sound satisfactory to all because much of what I want to say is about matters of strike and fabric where I see what's wrong but can't easily put into words; some things which are quite specific I don't wish to explain in detail as a forger might the attempt to fix.</p><p><br /></p><p>For me, I continue to collect from those expert dealers I really trust, combined with my own expertise and old provenance researches. It's not that an old provenance is a protection against forgeries, but that the forgeries from 100 years ago are invariably much worse made (because the forgers did not have the photographic databases to get things just perfect) and more obvious. 1930s catalogues generally have either genuine coins or very badly made forgeries that would never deceive me. I'm usually very happy to own an evidently genuine coin that was also part of a collection owned 100 years ago or more.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Andrew McCabe, post: 3534701, member: 90666"]Yes I agree the style of the fake Lanz Murcus is absolutely correct because as is invariably the case with high end fakes it is derived from a genuine coin with known dies. The fabric and supposed strike seem entirely wrong to me. I mentioned a plastic look to it. The relief is wrong in the manner that the edges of the devices of a plastic toy coin are raised from the surfaces. It is a fake made using a copy of a real coin as its basis and then improved and changed in such a way as to leave an unnatural effect that would not have been produced by the ancient dies being struck with the normal strike effects and deficiencies seen on the genuine coins of Murcus. The surfaces are also not typical. Overall the coin looks entirely wrong as compared to other genuine Murcus types. The Octavian / Mark Antony is in evidently the wrong style. The Caesar elephant - I know what things are wrong with it but don't want to discuss all here as some are design related matters that a forger might address for his version 2. Much of the problems relate to the fabric and strike which are less easily faked. A competent numismatic expert should have sensed something wrong with these three coins, or at least that they were odd as compared with the norms, without necessarily being able to say exactly why, but sufficiently so as to refuse their consignment. As with all discussions on fakes, whatever I write will not sound satisfactory to all because much of what I want to say is about matters of strike and fabric where I see what's wrong but can't easily put into words; some things which are quite specific I don't wish to explain in detail as a forger might the attempt to fix. For me, I continue to collect from those expert dealers I really trust, combined with my own expertise and old provenance researches. It's not that an old provenance is a protection against forgeries, but that the forgeries from 100 years ago are invariably much worse made (because the forgers did not have the photographic databases to get things just perfect) and more obvious. 1930s catalogues generally have either genuine coins or very badly made forgeries that would never deceive me. I'm usually very happy to own an evidently genuine coin that was also part of a collection owned 100 years ago or more.[/QUOTE]
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